I know a little bit about long distance relationships. For
two years my wife and I each made monthly trips on the train between London and
Manchester before (fed up of Virgin trains), I eventually even got down on one
knee on a busy Euston platform to propose marriage and a move north.
For the past couple of years, Simon Rogan has been making
this same 200 mile journey between L’Enclume (see here)
and his London restaurant, Roganic (his first outside Cartmel).
Recently, Simon has entered into a marriage or union with The French at The Midland Hotel in
Manchester. The commute between here and his Cumbrian base now just 80 miles.
Earlier in the week I made this 80 mile journey myself to
visit Rogan & Co (here)
and his farm, which I first visited when I ate at his Aulis Research and
Development Kitchen (here).
The farm operation, under the guidance of Chefs Dan Cox and
Lucia Corbel and with support from Ken Holland, has gone from strength to
strength since my last visit. The video on Simon’s website (here) best shows this.
One anecdote told to me by Lucia that speaks volumes is how
on the first night that she and Dan transferred saplings from the heated
polytunnel to fend for themselves with just few layer of fleece for protection.
Stopping short of using a baby monitor or sitting up all
night with their ‘babies’, with a look a parent might have when sending their
child to school for the first time, Dan apparently said, "They will be alright,
won't they?" before swaddling them in another layer of protective fleece.
It's this love which transcends from farm to plate in
everything that Simon Rogan and his team do that make his food and restaurants
so special.
Having already posted
about The French by Simon Rogan twice this month (preview here
& opening night here),
a third time could be considered overkill – but already the food is evolving
and service is becoming slicker.
On this visit, I opted
for the £55, 6-course lunch (on a Saturday they also offer 3-course for £29
and 10 for and £79 – although I should point out that as a ‘regular’ and
knowing that it’s my favourite they kindly also provided the salad).
Amuse bouche generally
come with each of the menus (these vary). This time I was served a Parsnip Crisp with crispy pork, smoked
eel, parsnip purée, onion seeds and, from the farm, the ‘true leaves’ of green
mustard. This for me, thanks to the parsnip crisp, is already an improvement on
the similar dish served at the two previous visits.
The second amuse, quirkily
(perhaps provocatively for fans of the old-school French) served on a hipsterish
enamel camping plate came in the form of Dock
leaf and nettle ‘croquette’ with buckwheat and a salt ‘n’ vinegar crumb on
an English mustard crème.
Next, I had Razor clams with egg yolk, celeriac
& sea herbs – a reworking of their reworking of the razor role reversal.
This may have lacked the whimsical presentation but it scored full marks for me
on flavour. The slow poached hen’s egg added a silky richness but it was the
addition of sweet, nutty toasted garlic that I think lifted the dish for me.
Artichoke broth with truffle dumplings, artichoke crisps, bacon
lardons, mooli radish & toasted hazelnut – since the last visit the broth
has become a little lighter in colour but not in flavour. What I loved this
time was that being sat under the stunningly beautiful globular chandeliers,
their reflection shimmered in the broth.
Ox in coal oil, pumpkin seed, kohlrabi & sunflower shoots –
perfection.
Fresh crab and caramelised cabbage, horseradish, chicken
skin with crow garlic. The crab dish was not one I raved over after the
previous visit – the taste was faultless but I found it to have an odd mix of
temperatures, as it came in a hot dish but the mix of white and brown crab meat
was partially cold. On this occasion, it was warm all the way though and as such
was much more enjoyable (a good case as why not to ‘review’ in early stages of
restaurant openings).
Early spring offerings, vegetables, herbs and flowers with
lovage salt. Every time I eat this salad I love it more and more - every
mouthful is different – every mouthful is exquisite. On this occasion the
subtle chilli dressing seemed more prominent which was a good thing but I still
think it’s the lovage salt that makes the dish so special.
Sole fillet with onions and smoked scallops, parsley and leeks – I
overheard the table behind me mention that the fish was ‘undercooked’ for their
liking. Personally, I love fish when it retains a slight degree of translucency.
This fish, even with the subtle smoke of the scallop tasted so pure and
harmonious with the fresh spritely flavour of the young alliums.
Studded Cumbrian rose veal, blewits, split pea, sorrel and
beetroot. The ‘veal dish’ is one that has grown on me with each tasting. Most
chefs make the meat the star of the show but with this dish you get the feeling that it's not 'all' about the
veal – the split peas carry the biggest textural element to the dish whilst the
‘fermented’ mustard seeds and the beetroot jus add the most interesting layers
of flavour.
Pear, meadowsweet and rye, buttermilk and linseeds. On my
last post I commented that the rye cracker was like a giant cornflake; this
time it seemed to have been sweetened so now it was like a giant flake of
Frosties. As Tony the Tiger would say, “This dessert tastes gr-r-reat!”
The best lunch that I’ve ever eaten in Manchester ended with Sass ‘n’ Soda which comprised of a shot
of sarsaparilla soda with a sarsaparilla meringue with, parfait and gelée
sandwich. Plus coffee and petit fours.
“It’s not a case of, “Will I be back?” It’s, “When?”
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We went to The French for lunch last Saturday. Had intended on having the 3 courses (in case it wasn't as good as L'Enclume) but I was deluding myself - we had the 10 course vegetarian menu and I agree, it was the best meal I've ever had in Manchester.
ReplyDeleteI live a 15 minute walk away. Can't wait to go back.
WOW this looks wonderful!
ReplyDeleteIt's not overkill! It's worthy of the attention and it's interesting to see the evolution of the menu/dishes already in such a short time.
ReplyDeleteAs you know I was there for the first lunch service on opening day, I hardly ever revisit restaurants to soon, particularly with set tasting menus but i'm back next Friday for the full 10 courses.
I'm stupidly excited even though I know much of it will be the same, I can't wait to try the dishes again and see if they're changed and of course experiences the 4 or 5 not available at lunch.
I just hope that the razor clam & particularly the 'Early spring offering' dishes are still on the menu next week!
Love how you managed to snap the lights/chandelier in your broth dish!
ReplyDelete