Described as "hideous"
and a "creation of the devil” due to his disfigurements, for much
of the story, the title character in Victor Hugo’s The Hunchback of Notre-Dame, is kept hidden away in the cathedral’s tower.
At the family owned Black
Swan, charming older brother James
Banks conducts the warmly welcoming and entirely unpretentious front
of house operation whilst his younger sibling Tommy Banks is largely kept hidden in the kitchen.
This is not due to his resemblance
to Quasimodo –
Tommy happens to be a very handsome chap; his appearance on Great British Menu have left many swooning – it’s down to the fact that he’s an enormously
talented young chef. His Michelin star is a testament to this (his talent that
is, they don’t give out stars for good looks).
I last visited The Black
Swan in October 2013 (here),
since then they have invested heavily (financially, conceptually and passionately)
in their growing operation – heritage variety crops, herbs, root vegetables,
leafy greens and edible flowers are all in the garden and on the menus. Preservation
techniques including pickling, fermenting and clamping all play a key
role too.
The bread has improved a
lot too… their sourdough, paired with a sour, cultured butter is one of the
best bread and butter pairings I’ve enjoyed.
Another highlight was the fabulous
scallop dish – baked in its shell with a smoked spruce butter and served with
pickled spruce tips, celeriac purée and an intensely zingy brambly apple jus
(picked and processed at the end of Autumn).
Smoked Eel and Apple
Mussel with Oyster Leaf
Langoustine with Caramelised Whey
Ox Cheek with Chive
Sour Bread and Sour Butter
Raw Red Deer
Crapaudine Beetroot cooked slowly in Beef Fat
Scallop with Pickled Spruce
Cheviot Lamb with Turnip & Mint
Brown Butter and Rhubarb
Sheep's Milk with Douglas Fir Oil
Cake made from Artichoke, Chicory Root and Thyme
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