Showing posts with label Vegetarian. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vegetarian. Show all posts

Thursday, 9 May 2013

Simon Rimmer's Greens, Didsbury


As a failed vegetarian, I no longer eat at Greens anywhere near as much as I did a few years back... but a recent lunchtime visit reminded me just how good it can be. I’m sure to be back much sooner this time.


For old times’ sake, to start, I ordered the signature dish of Deep fried oyster mushrooms with Chinese pancakes, pickled ginger salad and plum sauce. I have never thought this is the best tasting dish on the menu but I enjoy the interaction and concept. Pleasingly, on this occasion the mushrooms were well fried and not overdone (as has been the case in the past.)


To follow, Truffled mushroom and pearl barley stew with potato and celeriac hash - a hearty, deep flavoured dish, enhanced by the heavenly truffle scent. Every component was well cooked with the barley retaining just the right amount of bite. 






Monday, 13 February 2012

Simon Rimmer’s Greens

Having previously written about Simon Rimmer’s omnivorous eatery Earle (see here), I thought it was about time I returned to Greens – the vegetarian restaurant that helped to establish the career, which has seen Simon develop into one of the country’s best loved celebrity chefs.


My wife was meeting up with her friend at nearby Albert’s, so with time to kill before my chauffeur services were required, I had set my heart on the Squirrel Pie special at The Rose Garden. Luckily, for the squirrel, it was closed. Luckily, for me, I managed to get a table at the ever-busy Greens around the corner. Mr. Squirrel got to live another day and the only killing of the day would remain time.


Dining alone with my thoughts but no one to talk to, I wanted something to nibble on whilst I waited and the Marinated Olives fitted the bill. They were good quality – firm, with strong olivey flavour.


When eating alone, the wait times between courses can seem to go on for eons. Entertaining myself with some people watching, earwigging and by taking pictures of the little fish bowl of flowers, I overheard a conversation at the next table.


Let me set the (typical Greens) scene, as I read it: the birthday boy was a twenty something post graduate, whose parents had said they would take him, the girlfriend, the brother and the grandparents out to celebrate.


Whilst mummy and daddy are proud of their well-educated son; mum is a little disappointed by his perpetually scruffy, unshaven appearance. Especially as he has turned up to a ‘nice restaurant’ wearing a faded band T-shirt, featuring some artsy student band I’ve never heard of (thus, making me feel old) and a grubby pair of Chuck Taylor’s.


Dad is embarrassed because his son is a *whispers* vegetarian *muffled cough* (Oh, the shame). So, he sits there, arms folded, stony look on his face - clearly embarrassed, annoyed and fearful that one of his mates from the pub may find out that he ate a meal without meat!


You can sense the cogs whirring, and then he pipes up, “What I don’t get is…” The family all lean in to listen - tell us more oh, wise one - “In a ‘normal’ restaurant you can get vegetarian ‘stuff’…” He ponders further… “So, why don’t these vegetarian places do meat? It’s not right!”


With that, my Deep-fried V Black Pudding with Mustard Mayo appetiser arrived. When I’ve had this dish before, both at Greens, Earle and at home the slices have been smaller but the chunkier pieces (as these were) are definitely the way to go! I do however prefer the mayo made with wholegrain mustard.


To start, I chose the wonderful Fried Haloumi with Pea, Mint & Caper Salad. Most impressively, the haloumi was meltingly gooey in the centre whilst the batter remained light and crisp. When I’ve tried this at home I either end up with firm rubbery cheese or burnt batter - if you know the secret, please tell me.


For my main, I opted for the larger portion of the signature Greens starter, Crispy Oyster Mushrooms with Chinese Pancakes, Plum Sauce, Spring Onion & Cucumber. When I first had this dish, a good few years ago, I loved it. This second time, I was not so keen (I think the mushrooms were a little over done). 


It’s a popular dish and I think the concept is great (I always enjoy food that requires a bit of interaction) so I decided to give it another chance – but for me, even after three goes, the jury is still out… the mushrooms somehow need to be ‘mushroomier’ (whatever that means).


The side of Chips were excellent but the accompanying Garlic Mayo had been in the pot or under the pass lights too long and had started to oxidise and form an unappetising skin (a minor niggle but one that’s easily rectified) – I still ate it and it tasted good!

Just as I was eyeing up the Chocolate & Salted Caramel Pot with a Brandy Snap on the dessert menu, a text notified me it was time to return to chauffeur duties so I had to call the bill – there’s always next time! 

For me, Greens is still one of the best vegetarian restaurants in Manchester - great atmosphere, service and food. Vegetarian or not... give it a go!





Wednesday, 12 October 2011

The Spice Club, Manchester

You’ve heard of Victoria, Geri, Emma, Mel B and Mel C… but let me introduce you to the spiciest Spice Girl – Monica.

Image courtesy of: http://spiceclubmanchester.com
Monica (and family) run ‘The Spice Club’, heralded Manchester’s first supper club. Supper clubs or ‘secret supper clubs’ have been all the rage ‘down south’ and in the US for quite some time. If you haven’t heard of the concept… (What planet have you been on? - just kidding!) they work something like this: keen amateurs transform their homes into restaurants for the evening; advertise through social networks, blogs, tweets and by word of mouth; guests register their interest and book; the location is revealed; they arrive; eat; drink; be merry; pay a suggested donation and then boast to all their friends and colleagues about how trendy they have been!

Manchester was late to the party, but since The Spice Club’s launch, just over a year ago, they have rapidly grown in popularity. One reason cited for their success is that people are looking for a cheaper alternative to dining at a restaurant; for me it’s about seeking out food cooked with passion and sharing the experience with likeminded foodies.

Spice Club founder Monica (left) and her mother  Anita 
I first met Monica and her brother Aj when they were invited, along with myself and other ‘key food people from Manchester and London’ to the Chroma Knives charity evening with Aumbry Restaurant, Aiden Byrne and Gizzi Erskine. Their friendly natures and love for authentic, quality home cooked Indian cuisine was enough to convince me to attend one of their events.

When, via Twitter (@TheSpiceClub) I saw that two places were still available for their upcoming ‘Indian Vegetarian Feast’, I booked our places and waited eagerly for details of the secret location to be revealed.


Arriving unfashionably early, my wife and I were greeted wonderfully warmly by Monica, her proud mother Anita and the most amazing smells coming from the kitchen, that the two of them had been working so hard in throughout the day. With the aid of three large dining tables, lavishly dressed in maroons, reds and gold, the family’s lounge had been transformed into a sumptuous dining room. Soft lighting, fresh flowers and candles enhanced the welcoming ambiance. A parade of papier-mâché animals held the name place cards of the twenty-four hungry curry fans who would be sharing the evening and unique dining experience.


As people started to arrive, conversation started to flow as people got acquainted. Questions such as, ‘Is this your first supper club?’ ‘How did you hear about it?’ ‘Are you vegetarian?’ and ‘What do you do?’ helped to break the ice. Apart from a love of food, we soon found things in common. Of the eight people sharing our table, four were teachers; one was thinking of getting into teaching; one was a chef and another a mental health unit manager.

Despite just three of our number being ‘full time’ vegetarians we were all looking forward to the vegetarian delights as we perused the beautifully presented menus. Another thing that we had in common… we were all supper club virgins. I’m what I call a ‘part time’ vegetarian; I rarely eat meat at home or for lunches at work. When out, and eating à la carte, I tend to choose the meat free options or fish/seafood dishes. I will only have the meat if we are having a tasting menu.

Fellow guest Tom, about to brave a fresh green chilli
Having just read about the two people who ended up in A & E in Edinburgh after participating in a 'world's hottest chilli' charity competition eating the ‘Kismot Killer’ and witnessing the Manchester Food & Drink Festival Chilli Eating Contest, my wife was a little concerned about eating at a place called ‘The Spice Club’. Her fears were soon allayed however when the food turned out to be delicately spiced and flavoursome, as opposed to fiery.


Our meal started with some mini poppadom bites and a Welcome Drink of Refreshing homemade lemon crush. Guests were also invited to ‘bring their own’ and the tables were laid with wine glasses. Aj acted as maître d' and, as well as being on hand to ensure the guests were being well looked after and the evening was running smoothly, kept peoples glasses topped up, including jugs of ice cold water.


The meal started with a Bread Pakora appetiser. The fresh pakora was made from bread, coated with mint and coriander chutney, served with sweet tamarind and jaggery sauce. I have never heard of bread being used as a filling for a pakora before but for me and the rest of the table, it worked really well. Jaggery is a type of palm sugar that some Indians believe brings good luck and is often eaten at the beginning of new ventures or enterprises – a fitting way to start the meal.

Following the starter, the flowers and table decorations were cleared for the entrées, which were served ‘family style’ down the centre for sharing. The dishes were:


Paneer Mattar - Traditional Indian cheese cooked in an onion, garlic & ginger masala with peas. This dish was my wife’s particular favourite. I have since made a version at home using Monica’s recipe that is available on her Spice Diary – Indian Food Blog. It’s sure to become a Hoss family favourite!


Another popular dish amongst the guests on my table was the Shahi Kofta – Spicy balls made from channa dal, cabbage & yam, cooked in a delicious creamy sauce. The texture of these balls was particularly pleasing, the pieces of channa dal (split chickpeas) within adding a delightful nuttiness.


My personal favourite dish was the Sukha Aloo – Potatoes tempered in red onions, mustard seeds, fresh ginger, mango powder & fresh coriander. I’m not generally a huge eater of potatoes but this dish was wonderful. I have been cooking a lot with mustard seeds recently and enjoy their texture as much as mild spiciness. Mango powder is something I have not cooked with before but will definitely be experimenting with as an acidulant in the future.


Ma Cholo Ki Dal – Urad and channa dal lentils blended together and cooked in a delicious fresh Punjabi tarka. Tarka is the method of flash frying whole spices in oil or ghee (all The Spice Club’s dishes are cooked in olive oil) to free the oils and enhance their flavours.


The entrées were accompanied by Basmati Rice, Fresh Hot Chapatis and the traditional North Indian Boondi Raita. The Boondi is made from fried droplets of gram (chickpea) flour batter, which is then blended with yoghurt and mixed with roasted ground cumin and fresh mint.


For dessert we were treated to a refreshing, homemade Mango Sorbet topped with mint sugar and fresh pomegranate. The Spice Club’s trademark subtle and flavoursome use of spices were added to the artistically arranged coulis, pleasingly spiced with cumin and a hint of cardamom.


Of all the dishes on the menu, the only one that I was a little apprehensive about was the Cardamom Chai Tea – served with traditional Indian biscuits. I drink a lot of green, white and yellow teas, but generally avoid blue (oolong) and black teas. The thought therefore of a black tea, laced with spices and milk was not appealing to me in the slightest. However, the tea had not been over steeped and the spices were delicate. In fact, I enjoyed it so much, I even drank my wife’s - a fitting end to the meal.

The guest book.
I may have been late but now that I have officially climbed aboard the bandwagon and am no longer a supper club virgin, I’ll definitely be seeking other secret suppers and will be looking for permanent membership to The Spice Club. 




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