Good things come to those who wait. I first became aware of Chef Matt Worswick early in 2014 when I was invited by a PR company to The Warehouse in Southport, who had just appointed Matt with much fanfare. Of course, being the rarest of breed ‘an un-grabby blogger’, I politely declined the invitation but had every intention of going at some point as a full paying customer. Sadly, he’d moved on before I made time to visit.
The press release at the time sung of Matt’s experience and accomplishments, which included stints at several Michelin starred restaurants, such as Le Champignon Sauvage under Everitt-Matthias, St Martin’s on the Isles of Scilly under Kenny Atkinson and under Simon Hulstone at the Elephant in Torquay. At the age of 26, Matt was awarded his first Michelin star, whilst at Glenapp Castle in Scotland.
After a stint at the Wirral’s Thornton Hall Hotel (which I also failed to visit), I think it’s fair to say that a few eyebrows in culinary circles were raised when Matt was appointed head chef at the two Michelin starred The Latymer to fill the huge shoes vacated by Michael Wignall. When Michelin removed the two stars a few months later, I'm sure was not the fairy-tale ending for which everyone had initially hoped.
However, Matt and his team dusted themselves off, pulled up their boots and worked their socks off to be awarded a star in their own right in the 2017 red guide. To me this shows great strength of character (which we also saw on TV’s Great British Menu) and respect goes to The Latymer for believing in and sticking with their man.
The meal was exceptionally great value and service was of the highest calibre. Star dishes for us were the very good risotto and exceptional scallop dish.
Sourdough with butter and pork fat butter
Colchester Oyster – oyster emulsion, cured sea trout & sorrel granite
Risotto – wild mushroom risotto, cep & parmesan
Orkney Scallop – seared scallops, spiced Brixham crab, sauce américane & Attilus Oscietra caviar
Goosnargh Duck – roasted breast, Yorkshire rhubarb & confit duck leg croustillant
Raspberry – raspberry & vanilla bavarois, fresh raspberries & elderflower
Chocolate – Chocolate délice, milk crumble & yoghurt sorbet
Mas Amiel – Maury, Lafage, Roussillon, 2014
A long-time personal fave, I was overjoyed when Lyle’s achieved the accolade of being crowned the 38th Best Restaurant in the World on the 2018 "50 Best" list, (see here).
Keat’s Farm Salad Leaves & Berkswell
Cured Trout, Cucumber & Preserved Lemon
Grilled Peach, Heritage Beans & Parfait
Grilled Trout Head & Fennel Blossom
Peas, Lovage, Sorrel & Ticklemore
Summer Vegetables, Borlotti Beans & Le Coste Olive Oil
Smoked Eel, Potatoes & Sea Aster
Dexter Rib, Little Gem Lettuce & New Season Garlic
Ricotta Ice Cream & Blackcurrant Leaf
Date of dinner: Friday 6th July
Whilst my favourite restaurant in Brighton is undoubtedly Chef Michael Bremner’s small plate restaurant, 64°, the beachfront location of his second venue, adjacent to the West Pier, makes it another top tip of where to eat on the south coast.
Whilst Murmurare at pains to point out that they are not a seafood restaurant, for someone who, lives inland like me, there’s something irresistible about the prospect of dining al fresco on a sunny day, with a backdrop of sea views and the sound of crashing waves, whilst eating expertly cooked and prepared seafood.
The lobster croquettes were orbs of sheer delight!
Poole Bay Oysters – dressed with ponzu
Sardineson sourdough toast with salsa verde
Lobster Croquettes – thermidor mayonnaise, charred lime & crispy kale
Beef Fillet Carpaccio – fresh horseradish, orange, rocket & a spiced walnut crumb
Fresh Tagliatelle – shaved truffle, egg yolk & grated Twineham Grange cheese
Roast Cod – charred cauliflower, brown shrimp butter, parsley purée & almond crumb
Whole Baked Sea Bream – with salsa verde & salad
Seared Chalk Stream Trout – cockle butter & a warm salad of fennel, Jersey Royals & sea herbs
Green Side Salad with grated Twineham Grange cheese
Salted Caramel Mousse – malt ice cream, & chocolate truffle
Date of lunch: 07/07/18
Contrary to popular belief Cornerstoneisn’t simply a seafood restaurant. That said, being a native of Cornwall and a Nathan Outlaw protégé, chef Tom Brown sure can cook… cure… and souse… his way around a fish.
On the day we dined, there was a token meat dish on the menu too – a braised beef croquette – but this naturally came with an oyster mayonnaise. We ordered the entire menu, which came out well paced for sharing. We were a table of three (2 x normal people + 1 greedy fecker) but it would’ve still been an ample feast for four.
Sourdough Toast, Netherend Farm Butter
Pickled Oyster, Celery, Horseradish, Dill
Raw Bream, Brown Butter, Capers, Lemon
Cured Monkfish, Almond, Grape, Sherry Vinegar
Soused Mackerel, Gooseberry, Cucumber, Seaweed
Cured Salmon, Lime Pickle, Coconut, Coriander
Grilled Hispi Cabbage, Smoked Cod’s Roe
Braised Beef Croquette, Pickled Carrot, Oyster Mayonnaise
Potted Shrimp Crumpet, Kohlrabi, Gherkin, Parsley
Roast Pollock, Café de Paris Hollandaise
Grey Mullet, Roast Chicken Butter Sauce
Octopus Cassoulet, Hog’s Pudding, Beans
Peach Melba Mille Feuille, Clotted Cream
Chocolate Fondant, Cherry, Hazelnut