Sunday 22 July 2018

Matt Worswick at The Latymer #MichelinStar

Good things come to those who wait. I first became aware of Chef Matt Worswick early in 2014 when I was invited by a PR company to The Warehouse in Southport, who had just appointed Matt with much fanfare. Of course, being the rarest of breed ‘an un-grabby blogger’, I politely declined the invitation but had every intention of going at some point as a full paying customer. Sadly, he’d moved on before I made time to visit. 

The press release at the time sung of Matt’s experience and accomplishments, which included stints at several Michelin starred restaurants, such as Le Champignon Sauvage under Everitt-Matthias, St Martin’s on the Isles of Scilly under Kenny Atkinson and under Simon Hulstone at the Elephant in Torquay. At the age of 26, Matt was awarded his first Michelin star, whilst at Glenapp Castle in Scotland. 

After a stint at the Wirral’s Thornton Hall Hotel (which I also failed to visit), I think it’s fair to say that a few eyebrows in culinary circles were raised when Matt was appointed head chef at the two Michelin starred The Latymer to fill the huge shoes vacated by Michael Wignall. When Michelin removed the two stars a few months later, I'm sure was not the fairy-tale ending for which everyone had initially hoped. 

However, Matt and his team dusted themselves off, pulled up their boots and worked their socks off to be awarded a star in their own right in the 2017 red guide. To me this shows great strength of character (which we also saw on TV’s Great British Menu) and respect goes to The Latymer for believing in and sticking with their man. 

The meal was exceptionally great value and service was of the highest calibre. Star dishes for us were the very good risotto and exceptional scallop dish.  

Parmesan Gougeres

Sourdough with butter and pork fat butter

Colchester Oyster – oyster emulsion, cured sea trout & sorrel granite

Risotto – wild mushroom risotto, cep & parmesan

Orkney Scallop – seared scallops, spiced Brixham crab, sauce américane & Attilus Oscietra caviar

Goosnargh Duck – roasted breast, Yorkshire rhubarb & confit duck leg croustillant

Raspberry – raspberry & vanilla bavarois, fresh raspberries & elderflower

Chocolate  Chocolate délice, milk crumble & yoghurt sorbet

Mas Amiel  Maury, Lafage, Roussillon, 2014


Date of lunch: 21/07/18

Saturday 14 July 2018

Lyle’s, London #MichelinStar #Worlds50Best

A long-time personal fave, I was overjoyed when Lyle’s achieved the accolade of being crowned the 38th Best Restaurant in the World on the 2018 "50 Best" list, (see here).

Bread & Butter

Keat’s Farm Salad Leaves & Berkswell

Cured Trout, Cucumber & Preserved Lemon

Cockles & Sea Purslane

Grilled Peach, Heritage Beans & Parfait

Grilled Trout Head & Fennel Blossom

Peas, Lovage, Sorrel & Ticklemore

Summer Vegetables, Borlotti Beans & Le Coste Olive Oil

Smoked Eel, Potatoes & Sea Aster

Dexter Rib, Little Gem Lettuce & New Season Garlic

Ricotta Ice Cream & Blackcurrant Leaf

Gooseberry & Oat Fool

Date of dinner: Friday 6th July

Sunday 8 July 2018

Chef Michael Bremner’s Murmur - Brighton

Whilst my favourite restaurant in Brighton is undoubtedly Chef Michael Bremner’s small plate restaurant, 64°, the beachfront location of his second venue, adjacent to the West Pier, makes it another top tip of where to eat on the south coast. 

Whilst Murmurare at pains to point out that they are not a seafood restaurant, for someone who, lives inland like me, there’s something irresistible about the prospect of dining al fresco on a sunny day, with a backdrop of sea views and the sound of crashing waves, whilst eating expertly cooked and prepared seafood. 

The lobster croquettes were orbs of sheer delight! 

Poole Bay Oysters – dressed with ponzu

Sardineson sourdough toast with salsa verde

Lobster Croquettes – thermidor mayonnaise, charred lime & crispy kale

Beef Fillet Carpaccio – fresh horseradish, orange, rocket & a spiced walnut crumb

Fresh Tagliatelle – shaved truffle, egg yolk & grated Twineham Grange cheese

Roast Cod – charred cauliflower, brown shrimp butter, parsley purée & almond crumb

Whole Baked Sea Bream – with salsa verde & salad

Seared Chalk Stream Trout – cockle butter & a warm salad of fennel, Jersey Royals & sea herbs

Green Side Salad with grated Twineham Grange cheese

Salted Caramel Mousse – malt ice cream, & chocolate truffle

Date of lunch: 07/07/18

Saturday 7 July 2018

Cornerstone – Hackney Wick

Contrary to popular belief Cornerstoneisn’t simply a seafood restaurant. That said, being a native of Cornwall and a Nathan Outlaw protégé, chef Tom Brown sure can cook… cure… and souse… his way around a fish. 

On the day we dined, there was a token meat dish on the menu too – a braised beef croquette – but this naturally came with an oyster mayonnaise. We ordered the entire menu, which came out well paced for sharing. We were a table of three (2 x normal people + 1 greedy fecker) but it would’ve still been an ample feast for four.

Sourdough Toast, Netherend Farm Butter

Pickled Oyster, Celery, Horseradish, Dill

Raw Bream, Brown Butter, Capers, Lemon

Cured Monkfish, Almond, Grape, Sherry Vinegar

Soused Mackerel, Gooseberry, Cucumber, Seaweed

Cured Salmon, Lime Pickle, Coconut, Coriander

Grilled Hispi Cabbage, Smoked Cod’s Roe

Braised Beef Croquette, Pickled Carrot, Oyster Mayonnaise

Potted Shrimp Crumpet, Kohlrabi, Gherkin, Parsley

Roast Pollock, Café de Paris Hollandaise

Grey Mullet, Roast Chicken Butter Sauce

Octopus Cassoulet, Hog’s Pudding, Beans

Peach Melba Mille Feuille, Clotted Cream

Chocolate Fondant, Cherry, Hazelnut

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