When Simon Rogan announced his decision to end
his tenure with The French, the news was softened for fans of the iconic
restaurant by the announcement that his protégé Adam Reid would be taking over
the reins, with his name above the Grade II listed doors.
Simon vows to one day return to the city,
stating that he has “unfinished business” – well, so does Adam, and it didn’t take
long for the young chef to put his stamp on the restaurant.
A mini refurb has not only seen a new edgier
colour scheme but now there is an open kitchen in the dining room where the
hugely talented, young pastry chef Zara Fenty and her colleagues plate the
desserts and other goodies. There is also music, a more relaxed service and
more flexibility with menu choices. Changes which hopefully, Michelin will
approve.
What Michelin say, ‘An intimate hotel restaurant created in the Belle Époque age
and now brought up-to-date. Dinner sees a set menu, while lunch is more
flexible. Boldly flavoured modern dishes focus on one main ingredient; desserts
are playful.’
Cod's roe and pine nut oil mousse
Raw prawn, fermented
tomato
Asparagus fried in
nut oil. shrimp sauce
Crispy trotter
Smoked sausage
Tater ‘ash, Mrs
Raffalde’s mushroom catsup
Lancashire Tasty and
onion tart, lovage and salad
Wild sea trout,
watercress, pickled elderflower
Cumbrian lamb, peas,
lettuce, ramson juices
Strawberry with white
chocolate
Macerated
Strawberries
Date of dinner:
05/07/17
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