When planning my trip to San Sebastián / Donostia I was advised by Guardian
writer Tony Naylor to leave my trusty
Michelin guide at home and instead eat my way around the pintxos bars (see here) – for the most part I took his advice, which proved to be sound.
Then I came across Eme
Be – the “new” (its been open over a year) restaurant from Martín Berasategui, on the outskirts of San Sebastián / Donostia. I liked the fact
that it’s housed in a former sidrería (cider factory) and that the menu, promising refined versions
of some of the region’s traditional dishes, seemed affordable. On our
visit, Mr. Berasategui was himself
dining in the restaurant.
In the large dining room, huge
cider barrels hinting at the buildings previous use were the most striking feature.
Upturned apple baskets had been made into stools in the reception area and used
as lampshades. Light fittings also made use of giant barrel hoops. Overall, the
refined rusticity gave the place an essence of a good “gastropub” in the UK.
One of the main reasons I
was there was to sample the Basque country’s famous “txuleta” steaks. My understanding is that there are
two types of steak commonly referred to as “txuleta”.
The first, the Rolls Royce, comes from the Rubia
Gallega (Galician Blonde) breed of cattle, which is native to Galicia. These
cows are bred purely for their beef and often live well into their teens. As
always with premium beef, such as Wagyu, grading is based on the type of fat,
colour and marbling.
The second, originating in the Basque country, comes from
retired dairy cows, such as Holstein Friesians. This is also known as “Basque
Cider House Steak” as dairy framers and cider producers would commonly offer their
respective produce in exchange.
Eme Be serve a ‘tasting
menu’ but we opted to create our own by mostly selecting ‘media ración’ sized portions
(half servings), with a full sized (ración, 500g) of the txuleta.
Following some chilli
infused olives, croquetas de
Jamón and crusty bread, an amuse bouche
consisting of mini pickled vegetables set into an anchovy cream came served in anchovy tins. A great idea that I’m
nicking for my next dinner party.
Ensalada Txangurro (1/2 ración) – a light flavourful herby salad of shredded spider
crab meat, served in a hollowed tomato, topped with a “mollusks air”.
Ostra (1/2 ración) – oysters lightly pickled with cucumber crushed ice
and “sea pearls”.
Kokotxas al pil pil (1/2 ración) – bacalao
(salt cod) is a popular dish all over Spain but this is especially so in San Sebastián / Donostia. Making use of the gelatinous
‘chin’ from the codfish, kokotxas pil pil is one
of the area’s most iconic dishes.
Flavoured with garlic and a hint of chilli, the emulsified sauce is
made with olive oil and the natural gelatine of the kokotxas.
Arroz Meloso (1/2 ración) – this dish of honeyed rice with spider crab
was not entirely unpleasant but neither was it really to my taste. I found the
honey a little overpowering.
Txuleta – cooked over flames “a la brasa” and served
with a silky smooth chuleta chop with potato purée. Whereas my wife likes the texture of a fillet,
I don’t mind having to chew a little or wrestle with some gristle as long as
the beef has flavour and boy, did this old girl have some flavour!
Callos (1/2 ración) – I’m a huge fan of callos and tripe dishes in
general but I’ve only ever had it in typical local restaurants. This refined
version had real depth of flavour; I wish I’d ordered the full ración.
Soufflé de Chocolate – my choice for dessert was a chocolate soufflé,
served with vanilla ice cream and cocoa pearls. It had a good chocolaty flavour
but, in a picky mood, I’d grumble that I wanted more rise.
Tarta Mascarpone tembloroso – my wife’s choice of dessert was what translated
as “trembling cheesecake”, I’m not too sure why but she seemed to enjoy it.
To drink we naturally ordered some of the local Sidra.
