Momofuku Ko (& Ssäm Bar)

Long over due, the penultimate post in my Hungry Hoss all time Top Ten is going to be a tough one for a number of reasons.

Firstly, my wife and I dined at New York’s two Michelin starred Momofuku Ko long before I ever contemplated writing a blog, so with no notes or pictures (thanks to boss David Chang’s no camera policy) I do not have much to jog my memory with the finer details of what we ate.

I do however have a copy of David and Peter Meehan’s Momofuku book (which I ordered from the Momofuku toilets along with another book on they had on the shelf called Ninja: The Shadow Warrior by Joel Levy).

Explaining his ‘no photos’ stance, New York’s king of all that is culinary cool says, “It’s only food - eat it.” 

Admittedly, as a blogger, I may be shooting myself in the foot here but I must admit I do kinda agree with him. He reputedly goes onto say, ‘the dining experience is being perverted by bloggers and social media obsessives alike.’

Now, when I went, I wasn’t ‘a blogger’ and instead of ‘overthinking’ the food, ambience, décor and service I just got on and enjoyed the whole evening (in fact, nine out of my ‘top ten’ pre-date my blog – food for thought.)

On the other hand though, I do also get great enjoyment from reliving the experience later on; looking over the photos and perhaps researching something related to the restaurant - whether it’s the chef, style of cuisine, building or location etc.

Whilst from Ko, I do not have pictures of each course to look back on and can’t recall details about most of the amazing food I ate that night. I do have snapshots in my mind of standout memories from the evening that I’m sure will stay with me forever.

Picture from 'Momofuku' by David Change and Peter Meehan

Fittingly, MomoFuku translates as ‘lucky peach’ and bagging one of the twelve counter seats at Ko is as peachy a thing as it is lucky!

The ONLY way go about it is to pre-register and then log on to their website at 10am precisely (as the places go in seconds), 7 days prior to your visit - I’d advise you to have prayed to God, be wearing your lucky pants, have everything crossed, be holding a four leaf clover in one hand, a lucky rabbit’s foot in the other and wearing horseshoes on your feet… sitting under a rainbow is also advised.

Momofuku pages from the 2010 Michelin red guide to New York City

The Michelin guide itself regales the tale of how some geezer called Barack Obama could not even swerve their ‘circus’ of a reservation policy.  So how did I bag a table? Luck, I guess… I so should’ve bought a lottery ticket that week.

Of course, ‘it may only be food’ – but it’s David Chang’s food; and I’ll get onto the stand out dishes that linger in my mind shortly - but one of the strongest images from the night involved a ‘Walk on the Wild Side’.

As the famous bass line kicked in and Lou Reed’s soothing Brooklyn drawl started to sing about how Holly hitchhiked her way across the USA, the chefs shared a knowing glace, nodded their heads and vibed along whilst preparing another plate of phenomenal food - for me, it was a moment that seemed to capture the essence of Ko and its East Village location.

In the East Village and other neighbourhoods surrounding the Bowery, for a long time the rhythm has been set by artists, writers and musicians. Today, it seems as though it’s the culinary arts of chefs like Chang and the Lower East Side’s Wylie Dufresne that are at the forefront of the area’s latest metamorphosis connecting the beat, bohemian and the blank generations to the current bon vivant gentrification.

Picture from 'Momofuku' by David Change and Peter Meehan

One of the most memorable aspects of eating at Ko for me was observing and interacting with the chefs. New York laws mean that restaurant employees who do not deal directly with customers cannot legally earn tips or share in the tips earned by the waiters.’ At Ko, because the chefs prepare and present the food to the diner they get a well-deserved share.

Another non-food memory from the night that seemed to sum up some sort of New Yorkish attitude was an incident involving a slightly drunk woman seated along the counter who I dubbed ‘Lamb lady’.

Upon being presented with the Lamb Rib dish, she proceeded to tell the chef that she had had far superior lamb in Vermont. The chef’s polite response amounted to something like, “Lucky you.” She prodded a bit more; took another bite and again proclaimed the Vermont lamb to be much more tasty. Personally, I found the lamb excellent (but of course, I’ve not had the Vermont stuff).

The other ten diners (my wife and I included) were starting to get a little embarrassed for the poor tipsy girl. The tactfully clever chef, who I’m sure has ‘heard it all before’ replied in a way that, reading between the lines, essentially said, “That’s very interesting… now shut the f*@k up and eat this lamb, inferior as you deem it to be, because it’s the best your gonna get tonight. Biatch!”

Too thick skinned to back down (or perhaps just too thick) and despite her partner’s vain attempt to prevent further embarrassment, she decided that she wasn’t going to eat the lamb and then spent the next few minutes going through her phone to find the number of her Vermont butcher. She passed it to the chef who, not too discretely, passed it straight into the ‘trashcan’ – class! You gotta love New Yorkers!

 

Food wise, I remember we started with the signature chicharrón with tōgarashi seasoning followed by several amuse bouche. Elements of which included a fennel granita; macerated strawberries and a citrusy Japanese ‘eggplant’ (aubergine) dish.

Other stand out dishes, included: a sashimi of Long Island fluke, fermented bean paste with beautiful pickled cherry peppers and baby ginger bulbs; the signature smoked 5:10 boiled egg with fingerling potato chips and beluga caviar and the excellent was Ko kimchi consommé with pork belly, Chinese leaf cabbage and an absolutely delightful and dinky ‘Kushi’ oyster.

However, undoubtedly the most memorable dish had to be the much talked about ‘shaved foie gras with lychee, Riesling gelée and pine nut brittle.' It featured a ridiculous amount of rich silky foie. I feel I should say it was too indulgent but I did manage to eat my own and finish off my wife’s – an exceptional dish that has to be tasted to be believed.

Momofuku Ssäm Bar

In New York the Momofuku brand is huge – the Momofuku Noodle bar is packed late into the night, serving up bowl after bowl of ramen and other goodies to the trendiest of New Yorkers and the Momofuku Ssäm Bar is considered one of the best restaurants in the world.

Interestingly, when we visited Ko (October 2010) it had (as it still does) the two Michelin stars but it was the Ssäm Bar (a Michelin Bib Gourmand) that was ranked higher in the S.Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurants list at number 26.

Momofuku Ssäm Bar

We visited Ssäm Bar the following day (where photography is permitted). Whilst the ‘Spiced honeycomb tripe’ ‘Steamed pork buns with hoisin’ ‘Cotechino sausage’ ‘Matsutake Dashi’ ‘Apricot sorbet’ and ‘Quark ice cream and chocolate dish’ were all outstanding – for me it was without doubt the Momofuku Ko experience that was far and the way more extraordinary and deserving of the number two spot in my Hungry Hoss Top Ten.

Spiced Honey Comb Tripe / Steamed Pork Buns

Cotechino

Matsutake Dashi

Apricot Sorbet

Quark Ice Cream

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Hungry Hoss Top Ten: No. 8 – Jean Georges

Continuing the ‘run down’ of my Hungry Hoss Top Ten favourite restaurants of all time - at number eight, another New York offering, the three star Jean Georges.

On my last visit to the big apple, I wanted to try at least one of the city’s five* 3 Michelin starred restaurants. (*Now seven, with Eleven Madison Park and Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare gaining them in the recently 2012 guide.) Masa was dismissed as I already had a booking at Kajitsu (see here) and as much as I love Japanese food, wanted some variety on my trip; Eric Ripert’s classic La Bernadin was a serious contender; I’d heard wonderful things about the service at Thomas Keller’s Per Se and Daniel Boulud’s eponymous Daniel is legendary and has trained so many top chefs.

However, it was the Asian tinged contemporary French cuisine of Jean-Georges Vongerichten that eventually won the day. Adding weight to this decision was the restaurant’s prestigious location in the Trump International Hotel and Tower at One Central Park West on Columbus Circle.

On the introduction to my top  ten (the Pied à Terre post) I  stated that when coming up with this list, I considered, ‘the quality of food, service, décor, ambience, location’ and ‘‘x factor’ or ‘je ne sais quoi’ – I’d like to add ‘timing’ to this list. For, what also made Jean Georges so memorable was the role that Central Park played as the perfect ‘digestif’ - after our meal, the time that my wife and I spent in the glorious autumnal sunshine, strolling hand in hand through the park, as the words and sentiments of Frank Sinatra’s ‘Autumn in New York’ rung through our hearts, rounded off the lunch perfectly and helped to make the meal all the more magical. Rounding off, the rounding off was a ride of the fabulous merry-go-round and a skate round the Wollman Rink.

All this, I suppose, does beg the question, would the whole experience be as memorable if it had been raining and we had hailed a yellow can back to our hotel? Maybe not, but like I say, that was just the digestif; we still have the fabulous meal to recount.

At the time of dining, the ‘Tastes of Autumn’ lunch menu offered twenty-one dishes with the set price of $32 for two and additional dishes for $16 each. My wife and I decided to select three dishes each. Please, forgive my relative lack of comments on the following, this meal was in October 2010 and I was not writing this blog at the time and although I took a few pictures for posterity, no notes were made. Consequently, I do not want to attempt to write too much from memory as I feel I would not do the food justice – suffice to say that my general recollection is that the cooking was absolutely flawless and the flavours harmonious.

I went for:

Black Sea Bass Sashimi, Himrod Grapes and Lime Ponzu – a fabulous Asian inspired dish; my favourite dish of the lunch.

Crispy Crab, Pink Peppercorn, Mustard and Exotic Fruits – a great combination of textures and flavours: with the crisp kromeski of sweet crabmeat; the juicy, soft exotic fruits and the ‘pepperiness’ of the mustard cress.

Slow Baked Salmon with Burgundy Truffle Crumb, Silky and Crispy Parsnip

My wife opted for:

Wild Mushroom Ravioli, Parmesan, Jalapeno and Mint

Coach Farms Goat Cheese Gnocchi, Caramelized Baby Artichokes, Lemon and Olive Oil (My wife’s favourite dish of the lunch).

Caramelized Beef Tenderloin, Roasted Brussels Sprouts, Pecans and Avocado

To follow, being in New York and inspired by the phrase, ‘As American as apple pie’ I chose the dish simply called ‘Apple’ which featured: Granny Smith Sorbet, Chartreuse Compressed Fennel, Crispy Salted Fronds, Spice Cake, Cider Sorbet, Clementine, Dates and Hazelnuts.

The spiced apple cake with the cider sorbet piped into its centre was beautiful; this was surrounded by dates topped with cinnamon encrusted hazelnuts and tiny Clementine juice vesicles that had been separated by liquid nitrogen. The Granny Smith apple sorbet and fennel with Chartreuse and a hint of aniseed then accompanied this, along with the crispy fennel fronds on top - a fabulous finish to the meal.  

My wife chose ‘Chocolate’ starring: Jean Georges’ Chocolate Cake, Vanilla Bean Ice Cream, Caramelized Honey Ganache, Amaranth Seeds and Hibiscus Streusel.

After the meal, before the park, we were presented with petit fours to accompany our tea - these included handmade chocolates, macaroons and the rather fun marshmallows, which were cut at the table.

One negative to our meal was the green tea, which was served steaming hot and unfortunately had to be sent back and replaced. I don’t want to make sweeping generalisations about America’s inability to make a decent cup of tea; or indeed reinforce stereotypes about the British and our tea obsession, but a three star establishment, even if in a city famed for its coffee consumption, should know the correct temperature to prepare and serve the teas that they have on their menu.

For those that don’t, here’s the technical bit: the delicate flavour and aroma of tea is determined by natural sugars and amino acids present in the leaves; whereas, polyphenols or ‘tannins’ contribute to astringent and bitter notes. Amino acids dissolve at 60°C, while tannins dissolve at 80°C. Consequently, tea brewed at lower temperatures will enable the sweet complex flavours to shine and will not be overpowered by bitterness or astringency. I’d guess the tea at Jean Georges was served in the high nineties*, resulting in burnt leaves and overpowering bitterness. (*Whilst this temperature is suitable for oolong or black teas it’s far too hot for green, yellow or white) – I hope someone from the restaurant reads this, as they were just about perfect in every other area!

Simple solution, when in New York, go to Jean Georges – it’s wonderful (but order a coffee.)

At the time of dining Jean George was ranked as the Restaurant Magazine's 19th Best Restaurant in the World (it has ranked as high as 4, in 2003).

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Kajitsu, New York

Continuing the posts on my Hungry Hoss Top Ten restaurants of all time, a ‘vegan’ restaurant may not seem an obvious choice but Kajitsu, meaning ‘day of celebration’ is special for a couple of reasons. Firstly, I love all things Japanese: samurai warriors; ninjas; the literature of Murakami and poetry of Basho; kitschy J-Pop and Hello Kitty. Most of all, I love the food of Japan - and this small two Michelin starred restaurant in New York’s happening East Village specialises in ‘shojin cuisine’, artistically presented in the kaiseki style; the Japanese equivalent of haute cuisine. The second reason being, the brilliant sake menu and parings.

The Kajitsu website states: ‘Kajitsu serves shojin cuisine; an ancient Japanese cuisine developed in Zen Buddhist monasteries. Following the Buddhist principle of not taking life, Shojin cuisine does not use meat or fish. Meals are prepared from fresh, seasonal vegetables, legumes, wild herbs, seeds and grains, chosen at the moment in the season that best reflects their flavour. At Kajitsu they make their delicious and wholesome dishes from high quality ingredients prepared with traditional Japanese culinary techniques.’

A master of his craft, having trained for ten years in Kyoto’s Kitcho, Chef Masato Nishihara works alone, like a rōnin, at his counter of the open kitchen, skilfully creating technically flawless and beautiful food. Such is the power of the chef’s fantastically fresh, authentic cuisine, that with every mouthful, I could imagine being at the foot of Mount Fuji surrounded by sakura, as opposed to a basement restaurant in the bustling city that never sleeps.

Despite it being late October, we had enjoyed particularly pleasing weather. Earlier in the day, we had taken another stroll through Central Park and had a sun kissed skate around the Wollman Ice Rink. In the evening however, the weather took a turn for the worse (so much so that our plan to go up the Empire State Building after our meal, had to be shelved). It also made haling a yellow taxi outside our hotel seemingly impossible. Wet and fearing that we would be late for our reservation, we were starting to get a little stressed - fortunately, the Waldorf Astoria has its own fleet of ‘limousines’, so even though we were a little bit worse for wear we eventually made our way to the restaurant in style.

I’m certain that Kajitsu could be described as Zen-like any time of the year, but stepping into this wonderfully tranquil restaurant from a cold, blustery and rainy New York street, made for an impactful contrast. Sparsely furnished with heavy wooden tables, stone floors and neutral hues, the restaurant’s décor is distinctively calming; this is enhanced by the subtlest splashes of colour from simply arranged flowers and artworks. I don’t remember any music – if there was it was unobtrusive. Simply put, I can’t remember a time when I have felt so relaxed.

As much as I love the image of the Geisha, it was also reassuringly ‘authentic’ to be served by a casually dressed New Yorker in jeans, a t-shirt and apron. At Kajitsu, authenticity comes from the food and the food alone - not from putting their waiting staff in traditional Japanese dress. The staff were also very knowledgeable, telling us about key ingredients, such as Fu (a traditional type of wheat gluten) and, of course, the different sakes (or Nihonshu.)

All dishes came served on bright red melamine trays, which made a vibrant contrast to the rustic Japanese glazed pottery that contained our first dish from the ‘Hana’ menu, Grilled Eggplant with Ponzu Gelée and a Hibiscus Leaf - blissfully delicate and beautifully delectable.

This dish was paired with Denshin Sake from Fukui – although I am not a regular drinker, I do enjoy sake. This one was very dry (my wife’s favourite from those we tasted.)

The next dish was an umami rich Autumn Mushroom Soup, showcasing some superb specimens. Some were familiar, such as Shimeji and Enoki; others were new to me, such as: Matsutake, Maitake and the White Wood Ear. The dish also featured Choji-Fu, Green Yuzu and Sudachi, which added a citrusy tang to the hearty and earthy broth.

This dish was paired with an Azumaichi Sake from Saga – as this meal was taken over a year ago, I can’t recall too much about this one and as I hadn’t started my blog at this time I don’t have any notes to refer to.

Next up came a trio of dishes, which complemented each other so well. My favourite was the Calamarata Pasta Stuffed with Multi Grain Rice and Chestnuts (The large rings of Calamarata pasta get their name from their resemblance to calamari rings; an unusual ingredient in Japanese cuisine).

Served along side this were Grilled Fennel Bulbs with Miso Marinated Sesame Tofu and Black Truffle – full on, traditional Japanese flavours and wonderful textures. (Sesame Tofu or 'goma dofu' is actually nut a tofu at all; it is made from kuzu, water and sesame paste.)

The final part of the triad was a Salad of Fresh Persimmons (Sharon Fruit) and Kabu Turnips – regally topped with jewels of pomegranate. 

This dish was paired with Born Sake from Fukui – a much sweeter offering.

The next course was undoubtedly my favourite, House-Made Udon with Kuzu Broth, Yuba (more commonly known in the UK as beancurd skin, sheet or paper and sometimes as tofu skin) and Nori – extracted from the root of a vigorous Japanese mountain weed, the Kuzu starch works as delicious thickener which makes soups have the most wonderful silken texture.

Served within the hollowed out gourds from different squashes, the next course was perhaps the most visually impressive, Grilled Yomogi Nama-Fu and Vegetables with Sansho Sauce and Nuts, Kabocha Squash Tempura with Daikon, Horseradish and Ume Plum Paste – the green Nama-Fu was the star of the show.

This dish was paired with Sasaichi Sake from Yamanashi – a particularly refreshing offering.

Following this came another trio of dishes. One being Gomoku Rice - some quick Internet research tells me, that ‘Gomoku is a rice based Japanese dish traditionally made with five vegetables and some type of protein. Everything in this one pot meal has strong healing properties that all come together to create a deeply nourishing meal.’ I can’t vouch for its healing properties but it sure tasted good!

Accompanying the rice was a small serving of Red Miso Soup. Of all the dishes on the menu this was the one that I was most familiar with  - it was the best miso I have ever tasted.

Complementing these dishes were some delicious House-Made Pickles, topped with delicate flowers.

This dish was paired with a Daishichi Sake with Fukushima – this was the smoothest of the sakes we tasted and my personal favourite on the evening.

The first of the desserts was a Sweet Potato Pastry Square – although I would perhaps have preferred a nice chocolaty rich cake, it’s good to eat different things - but it’s fair to say, Japanese desserts are not my favourite sweet treats.

Following the ‘sweet’ was a traditionally prepared beautifully bitter Matcha Tea served with Candies from, Kyoto’s ‘oldest and best known okashi-ya’ (sweet shop), Kagizen Yoshifusa.

An enchanting eating experience - for providing us with exquisitely prepared Shojin cuisine in perfectly peaceful surroundings, Kajitsu is the restaurant, currently at number 9 in my all time Hungry Hoss Top Ten. 

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