Black Swan, Oldstead (revisit) #OneMichelinStar

Described as "hideous" and a "creation of the devil” due to his disfigurements, for much of the story, the title character in Victor Hugo’s The Hunchback of Notre-Dame, is kept hidden away in the cathedral’s tower.

At the family owned Black Swan, charming older brother James Banks conducts the warmly welcoming and entirely unpretentious front of house operation whilst his younger sibling Tommy Banks is largely kept hidden in the kitchen.

This is not due to his resemblance to Quasimodo – Tommy happens to be a very handsome chap; his appearance on Great British Menu have left many swooning – it’s down to the fact that he’s an enormously talented young chef. His Michelin star is a testament to this (his talent that is, they don’t give out stars for good looks).

I last visited The Black Swan in October 2013 (here), since then they have invested heavily (financially, conceptually and passionately) in their growing operation – heritage variety crops, herbs, root vegetables, leafy greens and edible flowers are all in the garden and on the menus. Preservation techniques including pickling, fermenting and clamping all play a key role too.

The bread has improved a lot too… their sourdough, paired with a sour, cultured butter is one of the best bread and butter pairings I’ve enjoyed.

Another highlight was the fabulous scallop dish – baked in its shell with a smoked spruce butter and served with pickled spruce tips, celeriac purée and an intensely zingy brambly apple jus (picked and processed at the end of Autumn).  

Smoked Eel and Apple

Mussel with Oyster Leaf

Langoustine with Caramelised Whey

Ox Cheek with Chive

Sour Bread and Sour Butter

Raw Red Deer

Crapaudine Beetroot cooked slowly in Beef Fat

Scallop with Pickled Spruce

Cheviot Lamb with Turnip & Mint

Brown Butter and Rhubarb

Sheep's Milk with Douglas Fir Oil

Cake made from Artichoke, Chicory Root and Thyme

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Black Swan – Oldstead, Yorkshire

Simply put, the Black Swan is a charming pub and restaurant serving great value food in a stunning location on the edge of the North York Moors National Park. It is one of only five restaurants in Yorkshire to currently hold a Michelin star.

What Michelin say:

 ‘Owned by a family who've lived and farmed here for generations. Top-rate bar meals are served in the characterful beamed bar and more ambitious dishes in the upstairs restaurant. Cooking is modern and highly skilled but satisfyingly unpretentious.’

What I ate: 6 course tasting menu for a bargain £35.

Smoked Eel with Apple, Beetroot & Horseradish – a simple dish of well balanced flavours (especially the horseradish crème fraiche and smoke which did not overpower as is their wont).

Chicken Terrine with Jerusalem Artichoke & Girolles – a delightful terrine dish enhanced by scattering of crisp dinky croutons and a heady truffle brioche.

Brill with Gnocchi, Paris Brown, Cobnut & Broccoli – the gnocchi was a little light for my preference but the other components came together well. The fish lived up to its name and the cobnuts offered good textural contrast.

Ox Cheek with Cauliflower, Macaroni & Pecorino – a refined version of a hearty American hunk of meat with a mac ‘n’ cheese fixing. 

Pavlova with Strawberry & Tonka Bean – a lovely dessert with a clever fresh cream sorbet and a mildly spiced and fruity Tonka bean ice cream.

Plum with Honey & Almond –the sharp Victoria plums made this my favourite of the two desserts. 

Verdict (Would I return?): It’s great value and also offers rooms; I’d definitely consider returning and staying next time I am in the area.

The nearby Byland Abbey, old-fashioned cars and piglets roaming the grass verges also made the trip worthwhile. 

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