Despite
sounding like a sneeze, since Alan Yau (of Wagamama and
Hakkasan fame) opened Yauatcha in 2004, it remains one of my favourite
places in London to eat.
Maintaining
a Michelin star since 2005, I believe part of Yauatcha’s
success is its seemingly unique ability to be both formal and relaxed;
suit large groups, small groups or individual diners; be perfect for a feast or
a light bites - but must of all, its
success has to come down to the always quality dim sum, drinks and, of course,
desserts served.
Originating along
China’s Silk Road, dim sum has, over hundreds of years developed from roadside
teahouses to the culinary art form we know today. Translating as "a little
bit of heart" or “touch of the heart” dim sum still has connections with
the drinking of tea.
The name Yauatcha being Alan Yau’s play on words of
the Cantonese phrase ‘Yum cha’, which means ‘to drink tea’ – it
had been a hot day on my recent late lunch / early dinner, so breaking with tradition,
I ordered an Iced Tea of Lime and Passion (with apple juice and
jasmine tea). There is a great selection of soft drinks at Yauatcha and they are not “all ice and no
taste” as is served in some places – mine certainly hit the spot.
To accompany the tea, I
ordered a total of six dishes. Arriving in a trio of stackable ‘zheng long’ (bamboo steaming baskets), my seafood
selection arrived first: Lobster Dumpling
with Tobiko Caviar, Ginger & Shallot; King Crab Dumplings and Prawn,
Cuttlefish & Zucchini Dumplings.
Yauatcha’s food may look like the dim sum that you can get in any average Chinese
restaurant up and down the country but the flavour here is incomparable. They
clearly use the top quality, fresh ingredients and make them with passion and
love or… "a little bit of heart"
King Crab Dumplings –
king crabs (and spider crabs) are amazing creatures that I’ll invariably order
if I see them on a menu. These were plump and full of delicious crabmeat.
Prawn, Cuttlefish & Zucchini
Dumplings – there are apparently over 2000 recognised varieties of
dim sum and these were the first I have eaten of this shape and colour. They
tasted great but I’d like to be more knowledgeable about the different types of
‘pastry’ and have made a promise to myself to look out for and enrol onto a dim
sum preparation course.
Lobster Dumpling with Tobiko Caviar
with Ginger & Shallot – these dumplings were
sensational – sweet, firm chunks of lobster meat cooked with the absolute subtlest
hint of ginger and shallot. Easily the best dumplings I have ever eaten.
The
nest trio of dishes included Spring Onion
Puffs; Mushroom Cheung Fun and Chicken Feet in Chilli Black Bean Sauce.
Spring Onion Puffs - these were not my favourite as I found them to
be a little dry and bland despite also being flavoured with dried shrimp. They
were good once dipped in the chilli dipping sauce but they’re probably not
something that I’d rush to order again.
Three Style Mushroom Cheung Fun – in
Cantonese ‘fun’ means noodle and
‘cheung’ means intestine but these
rice noodle rolls are just named for their resemblance to pig’s innards. If the
name doesn’t put you off beware that with the mushrooms and sweet soy based
sauce the resulting dish is quite ‘slimy’ – personally, I don’t mind a slimy
textured dish and these slipped down a treat.
Chicken Feet in Chilli Black Bean Sauce – occasionally
listed on dim sum menus as ‘phoenix talons,’ chicken feet are another
ingredient that some may choose to avoid. I however, love to get messy with the
glutinous goodness and enjoy spitting out the small connecting bones. The skin
and tendons add an interesting textural difference to all that wonderful cooked
down collagen – forget KFC these are the real definition of ‘finger lickin' good’.
I
finished my meat with a Pearl Leong
‘tea smoothie’ made with mango, guava, orange juice and oolong tea – another
example of Yauatcha’s top selection of refreshing drinks.
Feeling
full, I was going to skip dessert but I can’t resist a macaron as anyone who
has read my post about where to find the best macarons in Paris will attest (see here) so I just went
for a trio of the perfect little pastries: a Salted Caramel; a Lychee
Rose and a Mango & Lime.
They were excellent – but when I go back I’m going to try harder to save room
for more of the impressive looking artistic creations that were on display.
