In my last post about a Japanese
kaiseki restaurant, the two-Michelin-starred Kajitsu in New York (see here), I stated my love
for all things pertaining to Japan. Whilst
in Singapore then I was eager to seek out the best Japanese food.
Despite not featuring in many guide
books (although listed in the Miele guide) or even being well known amongst
locals, one place I was especially keen to visit was Goto.
Before opening his intimate (just
four tables) eponymous restaurant, Goto Hisao worked for many years as a
private chef for the former Japanese ambassador in Singapore.
Entering to an 'oasis of calm' and
being greeted so warmly and reverently by the chef’s wife (who runs the front
of house) in her traditional geisha style dress I was soon in a complete state
of relaxation.
This ‘Zen-like space’ reminded me so
much of contradictions of which Japanese culture is so full – on one had there
is the busy, busy, work, work culture with images of suited businessman
sleeping on a train; the bright neon lights of Tokyo; bustling crowds at the
Shibuya street crossing; the Shinkansen "Bullet Train"; robotics; instant
noodles; Hello Kitty; whirling kaiten conveyor belt sushi; harajukus and
swishing Samurai swords.
On the other hand Japan conjures up
images of Mount Fuji; calligraphy; origami; Ikebana flower arrangements; Hokusai prints; Sakura blossoms; tea ceremonies and bathing in onsens.
Goto is certainly more reminiscent
of the latter with the spirit and flavour of old world Japan.
The first dishes to be presented
taking the role of Sakizuke (similar
to the French idea of an amuse bouche) and a seasonal Hassun set featured five fabulous and tasty bites.
The first was a Chicken Dumpling topped with ginger and fresh chilli. The second was a couple of florets
of blanched Broccoli topped with Dried Bonito Flakes (the stuff dashi is
made from). The third was a glorious mixture of Glutinous Rice & Minced Prawn.
Next up was the amazing raw seasoned
Hotaru Ika – known as the ‘firefly
squid’ or the ‘sparkling enope squid’ because of their ability to light
themselves up to attract prey or a mate. Take some time to Google ‘firefly
squid’ and look at the image results, they really are amazing creatures – they
taste pretty good too! The finale of the five starting
bites was a beautifully made and seasoned Crab
Meat Tamagoyaki. The Saukua (cherry blossom) buds in the picture were just
for decoration.
The next course was the Mukōzuke, a small but wonderful
selection of market fresh Sashimi.
Hirame (Fluke) Kanpachi (Amberjack) and Hotate (scallop)
Next to arrive was a traditional
simmered dish or ‘Takiawase’ made
with pumpkin, sugar snap peas and kind of tofu ball or fritter called Hiryuzu (or Ganmodoki).
Batter-wise, this was not the best Tempura I’ve had but it was a tasty and
interesting selection, featuring plump prawns, yam, sweet potato and rape
blossoms as well as my first taste of ‘salangichthys microdon’ - more
appetizingly known as Japanese Icefish
(or noodlefish).
The next course came in two parts:
the ‘lidded dish’ or Futamono of Miso Soup and Inari Zushi.
The inari sushi had been made with
house-made bean curd; fresher and more natural tasting then the usual stuff
from packets or tins. The rice within was wonderfully seasoned with seaweed.
Our seasonal dessert or Mizumono featured a tropical tasting Mango Pudding, Fresh Fruit and a Homemade Milk Ice Cream. As this meal was my wife’s birthday treat from
her son Chef Goto Hisao presented hers complete with a candle.
A wonderful experience – Goto is a
must for lovers of Japanese cuisine in Singapore.
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