Last time I was in
Singapore I didn’t get round to visiting the ‘celebrity chef’ restaurants in
Marina Bay Sands. Part of the reason for this was the thought of dining in a mall
did not especially appeal and also because there are so many other wonderful
places to eat in and around town – diners really are spoilt for choice.
Inside the malls, you’ll
find most of the big named chefs and their eateries – the likes of Daniel Boulud’s db Bistro Moderne,
Mario Batali’s Pizzeria and Osteria Mozza, Wolfgang Puck’s Cut, Tetsuya
Wakuda’s Waku Ghin, Hide Yammamoto and Guy Savoy all attract the crowds.
Not all the ‘celebrity
chefs’ take the mall option however, Joël Robuchon is based on the Sentosa
resort; Iggy’s, Jaan and Shinji by Kanesaka are all in hotels; Jason Atherton's Esquina, The
Tippling Club, Gunther’s Modern French Cuisine and André are housed in ‘heritage sites’.
But this year, having
tried most of the best Singapore has to offer and because we didn’t get round
to visiting the three-Michelin-starred 'Daniel' whilst in New York, it was time to
check out Daniel Boulud’s Bistro… they also had a cheap (by Singapore
standards) pre-theatre set menu of 3-courses and a glass of wine for S$68,
which appealed.
Arriving early for a window
shop in the luxurious branches of shops such as Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Jimmy
Choo, Hervé Léger, Chopard and Chanel we eventually made
our way to the strangely positioned restaurant. I say ‘strangely positioned’
because instead of being tucked away in a food court, Cut, Osteria Mozza and db
Bistro Moderne are in prime retail spaces on the main shopping thoroughfares.
Here’s
where my post takes a turn: My stepson (who lives and works in Singapore in
the industry) knows the Chef and had (unbeknown to us) informed him of our
reservation - and had obviously 'laid it on a bit' implying that we were
international jet-setting gourmands and were subsequently greeted like VIPs.
Chef Stephane Istel came
out to greet us and was keen to find out about our foodist adventures in Paris. Stephane
was as charming, passionate and generous as any chef we have met. After finding
out that we had no allergies or aversions to particular ingredients he took
away the menus that the waiter had given us and proclaimed, “Please, allow me
to cook for you!”
So instead of the
expected simple 3-course early dinner, Chef Istel prepared us a special menu of
Boulud's classics and specialties from his own hometown of Alsace.
Each dish was brought
out from the kitchen by Stephane himself and explained to us with his great passion - this personal, VIP treatment,
whilst somewhat embarrassing, was much appreciated. The chef and the whole
staff’s efforts making us feel very special.
We soon realised that provided you are seated facing the semi transparent screened kitchen
(as we were), the mall setting would not be a problem - there was a compete
sense of being in a French bistro of the highest regard.
The first course to
arrive was a delicious Tarte flambée
– a specialty from Chef Istel’s hometown of Alsace. The bread dough had been rolled ‘filo pastry
thin’ into the traditional oblong shape and topped with fromage blanc (a kind
of milk version of crème fraiche),
onions, chives and ham lardons.
Next up an indulgent Gillardeau Oyster, set with a lemongrass
cream and caviar – absolute perfection…
my new favourite way to enjoy oysters.
Yellowfin
Tuna Carpaccio 'niçoise style' with white anchovies, French beans, egg,
tomato, black olives topped with mini croutes
and a delicious lemon dressing - vibrant on the plate and with wonderful clean flavours.
Duck Prosciutto – it seems, that I didn’t take any notes for this dish but I do recall
the charcuterie being excellent quality.
Homemade
Potato Gnocchi – the potato gnocchi were perfect examples, like 'little
fluffy clouds' tastily paired with braised endive, the excellent Fourme d'Ambert cheese,
baby spinach and walnuts.
Grilled Boston Scallop
with Pan Seared John Dory – a beautiful dish
featuring a real kick of citrus from a Meyer lemon emulsion. Every component
was exquisitely cooked: perfect scallop and fish; crisp green and white
asparagus and mangetout with an exceptional ravioli, so thin it was as though
it had a window to its herby filling.
As mentioned, every course was hand
delivered by Chef Istel but the one he rightly seemed most passionate about was
the homage to his hometown of Alsace - ‘Lapin
au Vin’ (like a ‘coq au vin’ but
with rabbit). Accompanying the pot pie was another Alsatian specialty, a side of Späetzle; naturally served in a cast
iron Staub cocotte (also from Alsace).
Made with a dry white Alsatian
Riesling and served in a rustic ceramic pie dish, this was
hearty home cooking done with the skill and precision of a world-class chef…
during my Paris and Singapore trip I ate some wonderful food but for full-on-flavour this dish stood out. The gravy made with the rabbit bones was so exceptional. This was without a doubt, the best pie I’ve had in my life.
For dessert, my wife selected the tropical
take on Baba Rhum with coconut
mousse, passion fruit sorbet and mango coulis and dressed with superbly sweet
membranous passion fruit seeds.
With a French chef of Stephane’s skill cooking for us, I selected
the Chocolate Soufflé with Pistachio Ice
Cream – I was not disappointed; the soufflé was spot on.
To finish I ordered a green tea with which we were served
some delightfully dinky warm Madeleines.
Who would’ve thought that one of the best French meals of my
Paris / Singapore trip would be in Asia and not France? I’m going to make it my
mission to get down to Bar Boulud at the Mandarin Oriental
Hyde Park London.
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