When
planning where to eat during our recent trip to London I had drawn up a list of
places I most wanted to visit – these included, bloggers’ favourites: Dabbous,
Hedone, Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs, The Square, Upstairs at The Ten Bells, Shiori and Sushi Tetsu…
they were either fully booked or closed for the first week in January!
Instead, I resorted to
going through the list of starred restaurants on my Michelin app until I found
ones that a) were open and b) had a tasty looking menu.
I didn’t have to look
far… under ‘A’, I noticed ‘Apsleys, a Heinz Beck Restaurant.’
Prior
to this, Apsleys at the Lanesborough Hotel was curiously
‘not on my radar’. Of course, I had
heard the name but beyond that didn’t know anything about the style of food or
the ‘chef’.
Until
recently I hardly ever ate at Italian restaurants, believing I could cook
better at home. But since Italia in Manchester (see here) rekindled my
childhood love for Italian food I have been keen to eat at a high end
‘ristorante’.
What
Michelin say: ‘Under the guidance of celebrated chef Heinz Beck
from Rome‘s (3 Michelin starred) La Pergola (to discover more about La Pergola,
check Mrs. Petticoat’s blog – here). Exquisite and precise
Italian cooking, in a grand, eye-catching but far from intimidating room,
designed by Adam Tihany. The serving team are polished and the atmosphere
reassuringly upbeat.’
What
we ate:
Tasting Menu
(I apologise for the quality of the pictures but my camera just wasn’t up to
the romantically lit setting).
Bread: The
breads were good; especially the ‘Carta di Musica’ but it’s the olive oil that
deserves a special mention. It was so good that I asked the waiter to write
down the name for me: ‘L'Olio Extravergine di Oliva Sabina DOP’ (I plan to buy some and carry out a taste test
alongside my current favourite, ‘Pórtico de la Villa’).
Amuse bouche: Crab and Lobster Raviolo with a broccoli purée and black olive
powder – an excellent start to the meal, filled with generous pieces of
seafood.
Foie gras terrine with smoked apple and amaretti – this dish was an absolute joy.
The subtle nuances of the smoke and almond flavour of the amaretti livening the
liver, apple and toasted brioche in the most delicious way.
Carbonara fagottelli
– these bursting pouches of bliss were truly exceptional, my
friends The Critical Couple describe the dish in all its glory much better than
I ever could – here. (They also have much better pictures.)
Scallop leaves filled with King crab and mojito sauce
– I loved this dish… slivers of
scallop carpaccio (half of which had been died with squid ink) had been folded
over the delicious king crab filling and drizzled with the citrusy mojito
sauce. ‘Lenticchie verdi’ seeds added a bit of crunch.
“Segreto” of Iberian suckling pig with liquorice, chestnut and golden
apple – I had my
doubts about this dish on paper due to the liquorice but it was thankfully used
sympathetically and the apple was not too sweet for my taste. The pork chestnut
purée added a gorgeous autumnal element but it was the sweet juicy sous vide
pork and chilli spiced pumpkin crisps that I enjoyed the most.
Pre dessert: Lime Cheesecake with banana sorbet, chocolate crisp and lime sherbet
– the lime cheesecake and sherbet was lovely, clean and fresh tasting. I’m not
the banana’s biggest fan but the sorbet was a delight. I actually enjoyed this
dinky plate cleanser more than the main dessert offering.
Milk chocolate, coconut and pineapple sorbet
– topped with the chocolate spiral,
the dessert looked the business but it was an underwhelming end to an otherwise
excellent meal. For me, the pansy petals offered nothing in terms of taste.
The room was magnificent. The service
was impeccable. We’d love to return (although probably for lunch to get some decent lighting for the pictures).
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I would love to get married there someday. I like the fanciful dome above which is effervescent in essence. The long hall makes it a good place for the bridal march.
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