These pictures record my twelfth meal at The French by Simon Rogan. With each visit, the food and service remains exceptional and it’s wonderful to see and taste what their Cumbrian farm produces as the seasons change.
As with all of Simon’s restaurants, the love and care that goes into each ingredient from planting and nurturing to cooking and presentation is evident on every plate and in every mouthful.
Just as dishes that have remained on the menu for some time are always a joy to eat, new dishes are exciting to taste for the first time.
The fabulous Ox dish aside, one of my favourites from this most recent meal was the new crab course – a lovely balance of flavours and textures: white crab meat and a light, airy brown crab mousse, crunchy crab croutons and crispy sea herbs; rounded off by an uplifting burst of flavour from an intense crab apple jelly.
For the rest of the meal I’ll let the pictures do the talking. (For a more detailed write up of some of the dishes, check my recent ‘Restaurant Wars’ post.)
Baked potato with cheese
Rye, eel, lovage
Celeriac with apple
Trotter, ham fat cream, sage
Brown crab, apple and perilla with hazelnut biscuit
Quails egg in brassica, kale, leeks mustard
Swede dumplings, duck yolk sauce, nasturtium
Ox in coal with pumpkin seed, kohlrabi & sunflower
Caramelised cabbage with mussels, pickled mushrooms, chicken skin and garlic
Baby beets, Ragstone cheese with artichoke, cresses
Roasted hake with seeded breadcrumbs, cauliflower
Mount Grace hogget, hay baked carrot, hen of the woods with yarrow
Selection of British cheeses
Cheshire rhubarb, chamomile, puffed rice & Yorkshire sorbet
‘Lancashire coals’ with liquorice, fennel & milk
Sass ‘n’ soda