These pictures record my twelfth meal
at The French by Simon Rogan. With each visit, the food and service remains exceptional
and it’s wonderful to see and taste what their Cumbrian farm produces as the
seasons change.
As with all of Simon’s restaurants,
the love and care that goes into each ingredient from planting and nurturing to
cooking and presentation is evident on every plate and in every mouthful.
Just as dishes that have remained on
the menu for some time are always a joy to eat, new dishes are exciting to
taste for the first time.
The fabulous Ox dish aside, one of
my favourites from this most recent meal was the new crab course – a lovely
balance of flavours and textures: white crab meat and a light, airy brown crab
mousse, crunchy crab croutons and crispy sea herbs; rounded off by an uplifting
burst of flavour from an intense crab apple jelly.
For the rest of the meal I’ll let
the pictures do the talking. (For a more detailed write up of some of the
dishes, check my recent ‘Restaurant
Wars’ post.)
Baked potato with
cheese
Rye, eel, lovage
Celeriac with apple
Trotter, ham fat
cream, sage
Brown crab, apple and
perilla with hazelnut biscuit
Quails egg in
brassica, kale, leeks mustard
Swede dumplings, duck
yolk sauce, nasturtium
Ox in coal with
pumpkin seed, kohlrabi & sunflower
Caramelised cabbage
with mussels, pickled mushrooms, chicken skin and garlic
Baby beets, Ragstone
cheese with artichoke, cresses
Roasted hake with
seeded breadcrumbs, cauliflower
Mount Grace hogget,
hay baked carrot, hen of the woods with yarrow
Selection of British
cheeses
Cheshire rhubarb,
chamomile, puffed rice & Yorkshire sorbet
‘Lancashire coals’
with liquorice, fennel & milk
Sass ‘n’ soda
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