According to
their website (here), “Londrino,
the first restaurant from Leandro
Carreira will observe the flavours, traditions and ingredients from
Leandro’s native Portugal, through the eyes of a chef that now calls London
home.”
Based in the Snowsfields
Yard development, near London Bridge, the restaurant is large and spacious by
London standards – dominated by a chandelier made from a de Havilland Goblin
jet engine, the involvement of Singaporean restaurateur and hotelier, Loh Lik Peng
is evident.
Leo (Leandro) is
well known to London diners from his days as head chef of Nuno Mendes’s
Viajante. For me, his pedigree shines, having spent time in the kitchens of three
of my favourite restaurants in the world Lyle’s, Koya and Mugaritz.
As you expect
from a Portuguese chef, the seafood was excellent. The prawns, kokotxas and octopus, were all highlights - dishes
were visually striking, refined and modern. Limiting components on the plates allowed
natural flavours to shine. Where innovative, confident flavour combinations had
been employed (such as the Asian flavours of amazake and red pepper miso), the
chef’s great skill kept these well balanced.
Although
seafood dominates the menu, it was the pork dish that really wowed. True to the
chef’s style, the plating of the Bisaro
pork, dry buttermilk, salsify dish was appealingly simple. Yet, cooked
pink, the presa was characteristically full of flavour - its sweetness grounded
by the biscuity buttermilk and earthy salsify.
Sourdough & cultured butter
Morecambe Bay oyster & onion brine
Mylor prawns
Prawn tartare, chestnut
Cod kokotxa & amazake
Hispi cabbage, black garlic & cabbage
juice
Octopus, red pepper miso, daikon
Bisaro pork, dry buttermilk, salsify
Grilled soaked brioche, sour caramel,
hazelnuts
Ice creams: caraway, caramel & vanilla,
beetroot sorbet
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