The soulless abyss that is
Spinningfields has never been at the top of my list of favourite places to eat
in Manchester… so when the “chain restaurant” Ibérica opened there, I was not exactly chomping at the bit to
visit.
On the day we did, my wife and I had initially been
keen to check out at the newly opened BistroVin (above
@SWofDeansgate) in Barton Arcade for wine, cheese and ham but it
seemed they were not yet fully operational. With our hearts set on procuring some
quality charcuterie, I grudgingly suggested Ibérica.
Probably in part fuelled by my mood, things didn't go
smoothly initially. On arrival we were shown to a table on the mezzanine level,
which compared to the high ceiled bar area, seemed a little confined, so we
asked to move downstairs.
The host then seated us next to the only other
occupied table in an otherwise empty section – I never know why places do this;
I guess it makes it easier to wait on but surely no customer, given the choice,
would choose such a seat? It’s not quite as freaky as going to sit next to the
only other person in an empty train carriage but it’s still bloody odd… I asked
that we sit at the bar instead.
After appearing like an awkward wanker, I was finally a
happy bunny at the bar. The young lad serving was good but I didn’t appreciate a
12.5% service charge being added to the bill as standard AND the card machine
prompting for further gratuities – one or t'other would have sufficed.
Generally, I found the food good – I
guess good enough to warrant a listing in the Michelin guide (the Canary Wharf and Marylebone branches are listed after all).
We ordered a couple of ‘Pinchos’, Baby squid with aioli and Ibérico ham with green pepper – both
were great little things that I’d definitely order again if I ever do return.
From the deli section we went for
the Anchovies in vinegar, Cockles in brine, the Spanish cheese taster and some Juan Pedro Domecq Jamón Ibérico de Bellota
– I found the anchovy dish particularly pleasing.
At £32.50 for the tin, the cockles
were the single most expensive item we ordered. Each one was perfectly plump
and delightful but I think you’d have to be some sort of certified cockle
connoisseur to fully appreciate them at that price.
The jamón however, as expected, was worth every penny (£20). Ibérica offer a
choice of three hams, which you can buy individually or as a tasting platter. One
advantage of ordering the platter being that it can help you to appreciate the qualities
of each. As it’s a personal favourite, I just ordered the Jabugo beauty.
From the tapas section, the picks of
the bunch for me were the Ibérica’s
Serrano ham croquettes and the Padrón
peppers with Maldon salt – good examples of each.
Conceptually, the Asparagus, Manchego, onion confit &
truffle oil toast was another good dish, although sadly let down by woody
asparagus.
Slightly less successful were the Aubergine, honey & pinenuts and the
Sea trout with almond puree, pickled
cauliflower & smoked olive oil – the aubergine was far too sweet for my
taste, cloyingly so. Despite being delightfully cooked rare, I found the sea
trout dish as a whole, a little lacklustre.
For dessert we ordered a portion of Churros con chocolate and the Torrija but received the Gloria cheesecake with Galician ‘Parmesan’
& dried strawberries instead of the latter. They weren’t the best
churros I’ve had but, then again, I was in Spinningfields and not a Spanish
plaza with the sun on my back… I guess that helps.
Despite being more impressed with Ibérica than I thought I would be, my natural snobbish
proclivities mean that I’d always rather support local independents like La
Bandera, Levanter
in Ramsbottom and El Gato Negro (when they
open soon on King Street), so I’m not 100% sure if I’ll ever make it back.
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