Many times previously I have stated how ‘expectation’ plays an important part in enjoyment of a meal. Restaurants that
are billed as amongst the best in the world on lists such as the ‘World’s Top
50’ complied by Restaurant Magazine have often dissatisfied me and other
bloggers whose recounts I have read. I went to The Samling with quite low expectations.
Unfounded as they were, these low
expectations came from previous disappointing experiences of ‘country house
hotels’, most notably at The Samling’s neighbour, the also Michelin starred,
Holbeck Ghyll where I have eaten twice. Thankfully, aside from similar
locations overlooking Windermere the Samling and Holbeck differ vastly.
Whereas I found Holbeck “tired” with
regards to both its décor and food options, the whole experience at The Samling
was fresh and new… classical with modern touches. It’s easy to see why they are
listed in the Mr & Mrs Smith collection and won the “Best Boutique Dining
hotel in the world”.
This year has been an
exciting one for the hotel, ex-Noma, Per Se and La Pergola chef/forager, James
Cross was employed to support Head Chef, Ian Swainson, who managed to restore the restaurant’s Michelin
starred status.
What Michelin say: ‘Small hotel restaurant in an old farmhouse, which looks out over its 66
acre grounds and down Lake Windermere. The concise, interesting menu offers
dishes with a classical base and a modern, innovative touch. Cooking is
well-executed and has a Scandic edge; a little bit of theatre is added along
the way.’
What I ate:
Amuse Bouche: Truffle arancini and
spiced nuts. The truffle arancini was so good it made me consider not having
the guinea fowl for my main so that I could have the truffle risotto. Instead,
I came up with the ‘compromise’ of requesting the risotto as an extra course…
double win!
Chef’s Appetiser: Compressed watermelon with
burnt onion ash, feta cheese and frisée lettuce.
Bread: White Bread Roll, Fennel
Foccacia and Black Olive Sourdough.
Confit Rabbit:
Confit shoulder and leg of rabbit, carrot and asparagus with a rabbit and
hazelnut dressing – I adore white asparagus but it is unusual to see it on a
menu in the UK so this was a rare treat. The carrot puree was also particularly
well done with the perfect level of sweetness to balance the fatty rabbit
confit.
Risotto:
Risotto of Truffle and Parmesan with textures of Artichoke – I’m all for
supporting UK produce and don’t sniff at the home grown ones but the two slices
of Tasmanian truffle that sat upon the creamy risotto were simply divine; so
glad I snuck in the extra course.
Guinea Fowl:
Roast breast and confit thigh of guinea fowl served with girolles, braised and
seared leeks and a smoked mushroom and truffle sauce – a beautiful plate of
food in both appearance and flavour.
Cucumber & crème fraiche: Pistachio cake served with crème fraiche and mint sorbet,
cucumber soup and greengages – a fabulous dessert, one of the nicest I’ve had
in a long time. It was great to see the underused greengages on a menu. The
moist pistachio cake and candied pistachios were particularly pleasing elements
to the dish.
Coffee & Petit Fours – the Salted Caramel Fudge was good; the Black Forrest
Macaron was excellent but the Chocolate Fondant was sensational (I was told this
was one of the first things out of the new development kitchen; a great
technique to give a delightful liquid centre with the thinnest of sponge
casings).
Verdict (Would I return?): I am already planning to return
with my wife for a lunch in December and hope to get back up in the new year
for the full tasting menu.
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Looking really good at The Samling I can see the style changing and moving forward. Time for another visit myself.
ReplyDeleteI recently photographed a wedding there, and found the whole Samling experience fantastic....very unique venue with stunning food (yes, I got fed too!)
ReplyDeleteConsidered both Holbeck Ghyll & the Samling. decision made.
ReplyDeleteGah, tried to book here at short notice earlier this year, they were full so we ended up at Holbeck Ghyll, which was...ok. Our loss. Tasmanian truffle? Well I never!
ReplyDelete