* Shinji was awarded a Michelin Star in 2016
Serving Edomae-style sushi, Shinji by Kanesaka at the Raffles Hotel, is considered one of the finest restaurants of its type outside of Japan.
Serving Edomae-style sushi, Shinji by Kanesaka at the Raffles Hotel, is considered one of the finest restaurants of its type outside of Japan.
Four
times a week, fish and seafood fresh from the waters of Tokyo Bay are shipped
from Tsukiji Market where they are expertly prepared by master chef Koichiro
Oshino and his team.
This
was our second visit and was enough to confirm Shinji as one of my favourite
places to eat in the world. When I last visited (see here), we enjoyed the 9 piece Hana Omakase; this time, we skipped
the 12 piece Tsuki and went for the 15 piece Yuki (with soup and dessert).
As
previously, the meal started with a bowl of finely prepared, Seaweed and ginger with soy and sesame.
The seaweed is fresh and delicate,
As
the chef prepared each piece of sushi and places them in front of the diner he
said the name of the fish in Japanese and English. I noted that this one was
called ‘Laser Fish’. Not knowing
what it was at the time, I thought I’d look it up later, but I cannot find what
this fish may have been. It tasted somewhere between Suzuki (sea bass) and Tai
(snapper).
Warasa
(Yellowtail) firmer, more fatty and flavourful than the previous fish.
Ika (Squid) at Shinji,
the squid is cut into an almost translucent slither before being cut into fine
strips (this, I assume helps to reduce any chewiness) and kissed with a little
lime juice lime for a fresh lick.
Akagai
(Ark Shell) with its orangey pink hue and butterflied presentation, I think the
‘red clam’ is one of the most attractive of sushi. It has a firm texture and
deep flavour.
Chutoro (Medium
Toro) cut from the upper belly section of the tuna, this ‘medium fatty’ piece
of fish serves as an interesting contrast to the fatty tuna that followed.
Otoro (Big Toro) cut from
the lowest proportion of the tuna belly, the supremely fatty ‘otroro’ is the
Rolls Royce of the tuna world. It’s this cut that can command exorbitantly high
prices at Tsukiji Market when the quality is high and the day’s catch has been
poor. One taste of the indulgently rich, melt in the mouth, tuna and you can
see why.
Aji (Horse Mackerel)
after the expensive treat of the otoro and its amazing texture, we were treated
to the much more economical Aji; although, when it comes to flavour, this fish
is truly well-heeled. To cut through the oiliness, grated ginger, citrus or, as
in this case, spring onion is often added to bring out its sweetness.
Maguro Zuke (Marinated
Tuna) a firm fleshed, non-fatty section of Blue fin tuna ‘zuke’ refers to its
having been marinated in soy. It’s one of the most traditional ‘neta’
(toppings) in Edo style sushi.
Sayori (Japanese
Halfbeak) this was my first taste of ‘Needle Fish’ – it’s an elegant fish with
a delicate texture and clean fresh taste, lifted by a slight caress of soy.
Katsuo
(Bonito) reputedly a favourite the Samurai, like maguro, bonito is an example
of akami (red fish meat) and another
traditional ‘tane’ (neta) from the Edo period. A seasonal speciality, Bonito has
different tastes at throughout the year (shun no aji) as the amount of oil and
fat will depend on water temperatures and alike.
Karei (Flounder) a light,
sweet meat with a surprising amount of umami.
Uni (Sea Urchin Gonads)
one of the most prized delicacies in Japanese cuisine. From my experience, its
quality and flavour can vary wildly but when you get ‘the good stuff’, not a
lot can match it – a sensuous creamy texture which melts on the tongue, leaving
behind the essence of the ocean.
Kuruma Ebi
(Japanese Imperial Prawn) sweet with a beautiful firm, meaty texture.
Gunkan Negitoro
(Chopped Otoro with Leek) watching the chef prepare and chop the negi showcased
his phenomenal knife skills.
Miso – a wonderful
example.
Anago (Conger Eel) due to
its abundance in Tokyo Bay (formerly Edo Bay) during the Edo period, Anago was
one of the earliest fish to be used as a ‘nimono-dane’ (cooked or simmered
tane). After poaching it has a loose, fragile texture with a subtle, sweet
taste. It was topped with a little yuzu zest and a ‘tsume’ reduction, made from
the poaching liquor.
Tekka Maki is
a type of hosomaki (thin roll with a single). Tekka, meaning “flaming steel”,
refers to the red colour of the maguro ‘gu’ (filling).
Tamago a
silky smooth sweet egg and prawn paste ‘omelette’ that I’m told takes an hour
to prepare each day.
Pumpkin Purée and Red Bean –
dessert.
We
drank Tengumai ‘Junmai-shu’ Sake from the Ishikawa Prefecture. Made
using the rare traditional methods of ‘Yamahai-jikomi’ by seventh generation of brewers at the Shata Shuzo Brewery
(founded in 1832). We also drank an Akamaou
Shochu (Red Sweet Potato Spirit).
Shinji
by Kanesaka as recently been voted as the 32nd best restaurant in
Asia by Asia’s 50 Best (here).
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