Monday 31 August 2015

Il Comandante, Naples #MichelinStar

As well as trying to find the ‘best pizza in Naples’ and eating in the local trattorie and alike, on our recent trip to Italy, we ate at three 1 Michelin starred restaurants – Mammà (on the island of Capri), il Comandante (located in our hotel, Romeo) and SUD (in the nearby town of Quarto). We had also wanted to visit Palazzo Petrucci but it was closed for August.

The food at il Comandante certainly looked the part, but overall it seemed to lack the clarity of flavour and depth that we have come to expect from Michelin starred food. This was a real shame as the kitchen had certainly put a great deal of effort into artful presentation.

What Michelin say, ‘The views from this restaurant on the top floor of the futurist Romeo hotel extend from the port to the Bay of Naples. The original, modern interior is equally attractive, while the cuisine surprises guests with its sophisticated simplicity and elegant presentation.

Seppia con emulsion di cardamomo agli agrumi, latte de soia e olive nere
Cuttlefish with cardamom citrus emulsion, soy milk & black olives

Battuta di Fassona con fonduta di parmigiano, anacardi, uovo marinato e pepe rosa
Fassona beef with parmesan fondue, cashews, marinated egg & pink pepper

Cannelloni di ricotta con maionese di acciughe e crema di broccoletti
Cannelloni stuffed pasta with ricotta, anchovies mayonnaise & broccoli cream

Triglia con crema bianca di zucchini, edamame e aglio nero fermentato
Red mullet with white courgette cream, edamame & fermented black garlic

Linguina di Gragnano con Anguilla arrosto, alloro e pomodori secchi
Gragnano linguini pasta with grilled eel, bay leaves & dried tomatoes

Diaframma di manzo con cipollotti caramellati al limone e gel di prezzemolo
Beef diaphragm with lemon caramelised onions & parsley gelée

Mousse di yoghurt con crema di limone di Sorrento, meringa alla lavanda e croccante al miele
Yoghurt mousse with Sorrento lemon cream, lavender flavoured meringue & honey brittle

For us, the best part of the meal was the view of Vesuvius. I wish I could be more positive but we found the food lackluster – taste wise, one of the most disappointing Michelin starred meals we’ve eaten.

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