Thursday, 23 October 2014

The French by Simon Rogan – October 2014

Since my last visit (here), The French by Simon Rogan has been awarded a remarkable 4 AA Rosettes and ranked in the Good Food Guide as the country’s 14th Best Restaurant.

4 AA rosettes puts it in the same category as two Michelin star restaurants such as Le Gavroche and The Hand & Flowers; and even 3 star places such as Gordon Ramsay and Alain Ducasse.

With accolades such as these, it seems churlish to bemoan Michelin’s failure to award a star.

So what can you expect to eat at the only restaurant in the country that has four AA rosettes but no star… or the only restaurant in the top 15 of the Good Food Guide without a star? Bloody good grub is the simple answer…

Squid cracker, goat’s milk, shrimp & fennel / Trotter, ham fat cream, sage / Baked potato & cheese / Celeriac with apple

Macerated tomato, crab, anchovy & celery

Salt baked swede, truffle, Ardrahan, fried bread


Smoked eel & sweetcorn with a lovage broth

Ox in coal oil, pumpkin seed, kohlrabi & sunflower shoots

Breaded oyster, butternut squash with bacon buttermilk & mint

Autumn offerings with lovage salt, cresses, herbs & flowers

Butter poached hake with carrots, asters & smoked marrow

Suckling pig, roast parsnips, barbecued broccoli with mulled cider

Berries with woodruff & cake crumbs

Plums in Cheshire honey, crab apple & marigold

Star or not, the restaurant remains full and the food ranks alongside the best served in the UK… it’s certainly the best in Manchester.

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