Since my
last visit (here), The French by Simon Rogan has been awarded a remarkable 4 AA
Rosettes and ranked in the Good Food Guide as the country’s 14th
Best Restaurant.
4 AA
rosettes puts it in the same category as two Michelin star restaurants such as
Le Gavroche and The Hand & Flowers; and even 3 star places such as Gordon
Ramsay and Alain Ducasse.
With
accolades such as these, it seems churlish to bemoan Michelin’s failure to
award a star.
So what
can you expect to eat at the only restaurant in the country that has four AA
rosettes but no star… or the only restaurant in the top 15 of the Good Food
Guide without a star? Bloody good grub is the simple answer…
Squid cracker, goat’s milk, shrimp & fennel / Trotter, ham fat cream, sage / Baked potato & cheese / Celeriac with apple
Macerated tomato, crab, anchovy & celery
Salt baked swede, truffle, Ardrahan, fried bread
Bread
Smoked eel & sweetcorn with a lovage broth
Ox in coal oil, pumpkin seed, kohlrabi & sunflower shoots
Breaded oyster, butternut squash with bacon buttermilk & mint
Autumn offerings with lovage salt, cresses, herbs & flowers
Butter poached hake with carrots, asters & smoked marrow
Suckling pig, roast parsnips, barbecued broccoli with mulled cider
Berries with woodruff & cake crumbs
Plums in Cheshire honey, crab apple & marigold
Star or
not, the restaurant remains full and the food ranks alongside the best served
in the UK… it’s certainly the best in Manchester.
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