Since my last visit (here), The French by Simon Rogan has been awarded a remarkable 4 AA Rosettes and ranked in the Good Food Guide as the country’s 14th Best Restaurant.
4 AA rosettes puts it in the same category as two Michelin star restaurants such as Le Gavroche and The Hand & Flowers; and even 3 star places such as Gordon Ramsay and Alain Ducasse.
With accolades such as these, it seems churlish to bemoan Michelin’s failure to award a star.
So what can you expect to eat at the only restaurant in the country that has four AA rosettes but no star… or the only restaurant in the top 15 of the Good Food Guide without a star? Bloody good grub is the simple answer…
Squid cracker, goat’s milk, shrimp & fennel / Trotter, ham fat cream, sage / Baked potato & cheese / Celeriac with apple
Macerated tomato, crab, anchovy & celery
Salt baked swede, truffle, Ardrahan, fried bread
Smoked eel & sweetcorn with a lovage broth
Ox in coal oil, pumpkin seed, kohlrabi & sunflower shoots
Breaded oyster, butternut squash with bacon buttermilk & mint
Autumn offerings with lovage salt, cresses, herbs & flowers
Butter poached hake with carrots, asters & smoked marrow
Suckling pig, roast parsnips, barbecued broccoli with mulled cider
Berries with woodruff & cake crumbs
Plums in Cheshire honey, crab apple & marigold
Star or not, the restaurant remains full and the food ranks alongside the best served in the UK… it’s certainly the best in Manchester.