When I Tweeted that I’d be heading to
Newcastle, the suggestions for places to eat come flooding in – one place that
people recommended over and over again was Terry Laybourne’s Café 21. My overnight Tyneside trip was
a pretty whirlwind one but luckily I found time for a quick lunch.
What they
say: ‘A city centre restaurant with a city centre
buzz. In the heart of Newcastle's Quayside, Café 21 is a classic, modern bistro
offering skilful cooking, sassy service and a good-time.’
What Michelin
say: ‘Stylish, open-plan brasserie where subtle greys
contrast with bold floral fabrics. Appealing classics display French
undertones; best value menus at lunch/early dinner. Efficient service.’
What I
ate (All for a very good value, 3 courses for £20):
Duck’s
Livers, Watercress & Hazelnuts
~ Hearty, yet refined - a fabulous flavour and texture combination with
beautifully cooked plump duck’s livers.
Pan-fried
Hake with Grapes & Cauliflower
~ charring vegetables is very much ‘in vogue’ technique to add smoky / barbeque
flavour to dishes. The cauliflowers were quite crudely (heavily) charred here
and the resulting bitterness was off putting at first but when I ate it with
the rich jus, sweet grapes and silky hake it found some synergy.
Montgomery’s
Northumbrian Cheddar, Honeycomb & Toasted Hazelnut ~ So many restaurants overcomplicate their
cheese offerings - it takes an assured restaurateur with confidence in their
produce to serve a dessert with such minimalism – stunning, I loved the
simplicity of this dish.
Verdict
(Would I return?): Café 21 is a real ‘grown up’ restaurant that is
not trying to be anything clever. Simply high quality food and service… I can
see why it had so many recommendations. Top place.
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