Rogan & Company, Cartmel

The Lake District or ‘The Lakes’ is special for a number of reasons: The area makes up the largest of England’s thirteen National Parks and is home to the country’s longest and deepest lakes (although, fans of QI will know, Bassenthwaite is the only official ‘lake’ – the others being 'meres' or 'waters'). The mountainous region also boasts Scafell Pike, England’s highest peak and the beautiful Wastwater was recently voted ‘Britain's Favourite View' – some of the reasons why the region attracts in excess of 15 million tourists a year!

The setting and inspiration for many of the works of William Wordsworth, Samuel Taylor Coleridge and other ‘Lakes Poets’, the area owes much of its conservation to author and illustrator Beatrix Potter. Who, with the proceeds from her books about Peter Rabbit and his friends bought and preserved many farms and expanses of landscape, which, upon her death in 1943, she bequeathed to the National Trust.

These are not the area’s only links with writing. In the 1500s, graphite was first discovered near Borrowdale. The invention of the pencil, led to their production becoming important to the local economy. Today, the Cumberland Pencil Museum sits on the site of the original factory.

In addition to all this, the Lake District has in excess of 6,000 archaeological sites and monuments, which date from prehistory to WW2, as well as over 1,700 listed buildings and an increasing number of conservation areas. It is also home to the Red Squirrel, nesting Golden Eagles and Ospreys. But, what really makes the Lakeland special for me, are my early memories of family holidays.

Where I grew up, mine and many of the surrounding streets were named after places in The Lakes, for example: Rydal Drive and Heversham, Bowness, Keswick and Windermere Roads. Enjoying going to the actual places accounts for much of my early pleasure of visiting the area. We often toured with a caravan and I fondly recall staying on small farms - helping with the milking, lambing and dry-stone walling; roaming the hillsides and paddling in the many streams. I loved playing on the water; canoeing, sailing and once hiring a cabin cruiser on ‘Lake’ Windermere.

Since relocating to the North West, I have rediscovered my love for The Lakes. My brother-in-law and I often seek out the quieter routes up the mountains and relish the unusual walker’s tradition of a Sushi platter followed by Butterscotch Green & Blacks, when we get to the top. (Well, for me it’s about the food - for my bro-in-law it’s more about the views!)

About thirty minutes from the Southern most tip of Windermere and a stones through from the cockle full Morecambe Bay, sits the picturesque medieval village of Cartmel.

Cartmel is celebrated for a number of reasons: its religious history can be traced to the year 677; the inviolable Cartmel Priory dates back to the time of the Richard The Lionheart and the Crusades. The imposing arched Gatehouse was added in 1330, the birth year of Edward, the Black Prince and around the time of the beginning of the Ottoman Empire.

Overlooked by the Gatehouse, for centuries, life in the village has centered round the Market Cross. The old water pump and fish slabs still exists and is an ideal spot for a photo as in the background you can see the ‘The Home of Sticky Toffee Pudding’ aka the Cartmel Village Shop and the famous Cartmel Racecourse.

For centuries, Cartmel’s many inns and coaching houses have fed villagers and travellers alike. More recently, Simon Rogan’s Michelin starred L’Enclume has brought visitors such as myself to the area. Recently, with the opening of Cartmel Cheeses and The Bread Shed Bakery, the village has enhanced its reputation as a foodie mecca. Our recent lunch at Simon’s ‘second restaurant’ Rogan & Company was worth the journey alone.

Our table booked at L’Enclume was for 19:30 so we were conscious of not having too much and spoiling our appetites. Therefore, we decided to just order some nibbles – we ended up ordering one of each dish on the ‘Nibbles’ menu (as well as a couple of sides of Triple Cooked Chips and Roast Pumpkin.)

Much of the food arrived in dinky Staub cast iron saucepans - one of the first to arrive was (my dad’s favourite dish) the Spiced Whitebait.

Other dishes were presented on rustic wooden boards, such as the delicious, Rarebit with Mrs Kirkham’s Lancashire Cheese and Worcestershire Sauce.

Marinated Olives, Hummus and Croutes - My parents, who (along with my wife) were my dining companions, run an olive farm near Antequera in Spain, and while these olives did not wow, they were certainly tasty enough. The same can be said for the hummus and croutes.

My wife’s favourite, the perfectly cooked Queen Scallops with Garlic and Chilli.

My favourite, the Garlic Mushroom Brioche – the best brioche (maybe even the best bread) that I’ve had since The Ledbury’s Bacon and Onion Brioche. So good, I ordered a second portion!

The Triple Cooked Chips were also worthy of ordering a second portion… then a third – perfectly crisp on the outside with fluffy centres.

The crisp, golden crumb of the Crispy Chicken Strips served with a mildly spiced Sweet Chilli Mayo.

How do you make mushy peas worthy? Simple answer; serve them with foie gras - the indulgent, Foie Gras and Mushy Peas.

Perhaps, a great way for Simon to keep the snails off of the crops in his new, much larger farm in the Cartmel Valley is to serve them up in his restaurants? However they were sourced, the Garlic and Parsley Snails were a delight – having slithered and slathered a few of the meltingly tender molluscs onto the Garlic Mushroom Brioche, I was in a garlicky Gallic Eden!

We also ordered a Selection of Breads and some Bread and Dripping – beautifully fresh and very tasty.

Now, do you want the good news or the bad news?

Bad news is that if, inspired by my post, you want to do so quickly as the restaurant and bar will soon cease trading…

The good news however, being that once the building has been revamped, they will reopen under a different name and serve some of the fabled favourites from L’Enclume, such as 'Egg drop hot-and-sour soup', which will come complete with a noodle-loaded syringe!

One thing’s for sure, when the new “Rogan’s” opens – I’ll definitely be making the journey up the M6 to The Lakes and Cartmel! 

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Northern Quarter Restaurant and Bar

Having heard good things about the Northern Quarter Restaurant from various quarters (pun intended), I decided to take my parents to check out the excellent lunch deal of two courses for £9.95.

The Northern Quarter Restaurant or ‘TNQ’ can be found next to Manchester’s long established Market Restaurant and over the road from Sweet Mandarin (voted us Gordon Ramsay’s Best Local Chinese Restaurant) and opposite the Victorian frontage of the old Smithfield’s Fish Market.

The Michelin Guide states that it is a ‘Friendly, modern restaurant with floor to ceiling windows.’ with ‘Keenly priced, seasonal menus,’ which, ‘Offer classic dishes presented in a modern style.’ We certainly found this to be true.

My chosen starter was the Salt and pepper squid with noodle salad - The squid itself was beautifully tender and served in a delicious, crunchy, spiced crumb. The noodle salad was served cold and I found the chilli sauce far too sweet. The ‘salt’ element was also lacking… and didn’t do what it said on the tin. I would have enjoyed this dish more if it was called, ‘Sweet chilli squid with noodle salad.’

My father went for the Smoked salmon, caper and watercress salad – he said the salmon was good quality and very tasty. The salad looked crisp and fresh.

My mother opted for the seasonal Spiced pumpkin, sage and walnut salad with curry oil – Overall, this dish was well received. She found that the pumpkin seeds were a little too fibrous, having not been roasted enough her liking - it was good to see them used however. The curry oil and spicing on the pumpkin were commented upon favorably. 

For my main I chose the Crab linguini with chilli and garlic – the dish had a good chilli kick to it. The portion of crab was quite paltry, perhaps reflected in the price. 

My father chose the Cheshire beef burger with cheese and fries – a small portion but well prepared and cooked.

My mother’s Pan fried fillet of Sea bass with niçoise salad looked very tasty and well put together. The egg was nicely poached and the three pieces of sea bass had good colour. The olives looked plump and the tomatoes fresh and flavoursome.

All in all, we found the restaurant very welcoming and a I felt it was great place for a quick lunch in comfortable surroundings away from the busier city centre eateries. I’ll certainly be going back when out shopping in the future.

It would be interesting to see what the place it like in the evenings – when I’ve checked it out, I’ll get back to you!

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Northcote Manor

For foodies throughout Britain, Northcote Manor needs no introduction - but for those that are interested in such details: In the mid eighties, Chef Nigel Haworth and General Manager Craig Bancroft took up posts at the ambitious hotel and restaurant. By 1986 their combined efforts led to Michelin awarding Northcote its first star. In 1989 the pair became joint owners and have worked hard to consistently place the Manor as one of the best places to stay and dine in the country; retaining its star throughout.

In 2000, young local lass Lisa Allen joined the kitchen, expecting to stay for one or two years, gaining experience before moving on. However in 2003, impressing Nigel and having been taken under his wing Lisa was made Head Chef - this along with her successful appearances on Great British Menu make her one of the most recognisable, respected and celebrated female chefs on the country.

“I read the news today oh boy

Four thousand holes in Blackburn, Lancashire

And though the holes were rather small

They had to count them all

Now they know how many holes it takes to fill the Albert Hall.”

Typically idiosyncratic Lennon and McCartney lyrics from the Beatles’ A Day in the Life - supposedly penned after reading a newspaper article about the state of Blackburn’s roads. On the day in our lives that my wife, my parents and I chose to visit, the roads were fine. We enjoyed our journey up from Cheshire to the beautiful Lancashire countryside. The only holes being the big ones in our bellies, eagerly waiting to be filled by Northcote’s Michelin starred cuisine.

The Victorian manor house boasts fantastic views of the Lancashire countryside, overlooking the River Ribble. As the hills roll away, sheep and cattle gently graze on the lush greenery. No wonder Nigel’s locally sourced ingredients taste so good with such luscious surroundings for them to thrive.

Once inside, stresses roll away as one is welcomed into the grandiose bar and lounge area. The quintessential Britishness of places such as Northcote Manor (Holbeck Ghyll and the Box Tree in Ilkley, among the others) is as heartwarming as the open fire that cheers visitors on the colder days in the hills.

The oak paneling and antique decorations are impressive enough, but what really impresses a foodie like myself is the remarkable collection of framed menus from some incredible restaurants; including Marco Pierre White’s Harvey’s and The Canteen; Pierre Koffmann’s three-starred La Tante Claire; The Box Tree from it’s two star heyday and some place called La Pyramide.

As we enjoyed our aperitif, an amuse bouche featuring a Caramalised Onion Mousse with Flatbreads and my dad’s favourite, Sausage Rolls soon arrived. It’s wonderful to see something as simple (albeit perfect) sausage roll served up in a Michelin eatery and it reminds diners of Nigel’s no nonsense approach to good quality, hearty food. 

Taking our seats in the main dining room, we eagerly awaited the set starter, a Parsnip Soup with Curry Foam. Although the main dining room features more modern décor than the reception rooms, the neutral colours and beautifully set tables still maintains its classic splendor. The plush leather seats were terrifically comfortable. 

The soup was very good; the accompanying Lancashire Cheese bread was outstanding.

My father and I both chose the Potato Wrapped Cockerham Goat, served with Lentils and a Smoked Bacon Foam. Chefs Nigel and Lisa are not usually associated with culinary foams but already we had had one on the amuse (the onion mousse), the starter (the curry) and now with the Smoked Bacon, each of them though added a interesting burst of flavour and were not just there for show or to be ‘trendy’. The goat itself was exceptional, so full of flavour and the crispy potato wrapping was perfect – very accomplished cookery.

My mother chose the Loose Birds Free Range Chicken Ravioli with Dried Plums and Basil - the consommé looked wonderfully clear.

My wife opted for the Smoked Mackerel Pate with a Soft Hen’s Egg, Warm Toast and Sorrel. I managed to pinch one of the accompanying caper toasts – delightful!

I am undecided whether the best pork I have ever tasted was at Le Gavroche (see here) or during a previous visit to Northcote, as a result of my recommendation, my mother and father both chose the Gloucester Old Spot Pork Fillet. Served with Celeriac and Spinach, Purple Sprouting Broccoli, Caramalised Onion and the Lancashire specialty a ‘Potato Dab’ (a battered potato fritter), they were not disappointed. The crackling was top notch!

It was a Sunday, so my wife opted for the traditional roast of Roast Sirloin of Dexter Beef with Yorkshire Pudding, Roast and Purée Potatoes, Seasonal Vegetables and Roast Gravy. My wife kindly gave me one of her amazing roast potatoes and some of her beef – it was sublime!

I opted for the Goosnargh Wild Duck with Spicy Red Cabbage, Turnip and Mead. A beautiful dish: the cubes of turnip tasted great and added good texture; the sticky honeyed mead added a sweetness that complemented the rich duck.

The four of us each chose a different one of the four available desserts. My wife choosing best with the Bramley Apple Trifle with Sorbet and Crisps - a great combination of flavours and textures, presented with flair.

My mother said she was a little disappointed with her dessert of Roasted Pear Rice Pudding with Sorbet, Yellow Raisin and Toasted Nuts. I didn’t taste it so I wouldn’t like to comment – all I can say is that she soon tucked it away so it can’t have been that bad! (I think she was just a little jealous when she saw mine!)

My choice certainly looked the part, a Tropical Fruit Pavlova with Jelly and Double Ice Cream. I’m sorry to say that for me it reminded me of the old adage ‘all fur coat and no knickers’ for it lacked a little in flavour. The sorbet had a reasonable ‘tropicalness’ but I felt it could have done with a coulis or similar for a greater impact; perhaps some passion fruit – but what do I know?

My father went for the Selection of Lancashire and Blue Cheeses – featuring a Mrs. Kirkham's Lancashire, a Smoked cheese and a Blacksticks Blue (named Best Blue Cheese in the World at the Nantwich International Cheese Awards – see here). The cheeses were well presented with delicious home made chutneys, breads, crackers and grapes.

We decided to take our Fairtrade Triple Certified Espresso Coffee with Eccles Cakes back in the lounge.

I read the news today, in which: The Sunday Times Food List, placed Northcote Manor, in Langho, Blackburn at number 30 in its list of Britain’s Top 100 Restaurants, (third in the North West behind L’Enclume and Simon Radley at the Chester Grosvenor). I say, “Well deserved!”

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