Monday 16 February 2015

Brassica Grill - Heaton Moor, Manchester

Brassica Grill on Heaton Moor’s (the least rough of the ‘Four Heatons’) Shaw Rd. An unpretentious, neighbourhood restaurant that offers good value for money, it is the first restaurant as chef/proprietor for local lad Paul Faulkner.

Having recently worked at Albert Square Chop House and for Harvey Nichols in London (Oxo Tower & Knightbridge), Paul may be best known to Manchester diners for the accolades he received when at the Urbis’ The Modern. 

With a talented team in the kitchen and front of house (headed by the excellent Garry Lui), Brassica Grill is the type of restaurant that would be a welcome addition to any suburban neighborhood.

What they say: ‘At Brassica Grill we aim to serve good, simple, honest food, ranging from succulent steaks and grills to modern British cuisine, using locally sourced and seasonal ingredients where possible.

What I ate:

Scallops, avocado & mango - Scottish scallops, guacamole, mango, cashew nuts & lemon dressing – a generous portion, my wife enjoyed this dish, saying it was delicate and well balanced; she also enjoyed the crunch of the cashews.

Pulled pheasant & beetroot - Pulled pheasant, beetroot & cider chutney, pickled celery & sourdough toast – ‘pulled’ meats are still in vogue and although the pheasant ‘worked’ well, personally, I’m a little more old school and would have liked it potted with the same accompaniments, which were very good. I particularly liked the acidity and texture of the pickled celery and the beetroot puree had great intensity of flavour.  

Ox cheek pudding - Braised ox cheek, creamed potato, sprouting broccoli & confit garlic – this couldn’t be faulted… the mash was perfect, the gravy flavoursome and the suet, soft and pillowy (more memory foam than eiderdown).   

Rib of beef - 14oz Rib of beef chop served with chips, flat mushroom and onion & bone marrow – when you have ‘Grill’ in the title of your restaurant, you have to get the steaks right. This beef, quality produce from the celebrated Mettricks of Glossop, was cooked just as requested.

Raspberry soufflé - Baked raspberry soufflé & vanilla ice cream – this was marvel… good height; a top that looked like it had been finished with a spirit level; lusciously light texture and, most importantly, not too sweet with a sharp hit of raspberry flavour. (Tip: lose the salad from the ice cream.)

Parkin crumble - Apple & Pear with Parkin crumble – this was my wife’s choice of dessert… with the ‘crumble’ a little loose and powdery, she should’ve gone for the soufflé.

It was a Sunday when we went and the roast dinners coming out looked good… we’ll be back!

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