Having
held a Michelin star since 1996, Northcote
is widely regarded as one of the most consistent and successful restaurants in
the country.
What
Michelin say: ‘Elegant restaurant within a smart Victorian
house. Refined, sophisticated cooking shows depth of flavour and a lightness of
touch. Local and garden ingredients are the stars of the show. Watch the chefs
in action from the glass-walled kitchen table or join them by taking part in
one of the cookery classes.’
Since my last visit a
couple of years back, they have had a major refurbishment and developed their
onsite growing operations, with the garden now producing a seasonal supply of
much that is served.
Chef Patron Nigel
Haworth and Head Chef Lisa Allen have created a number of menus that celebrate
the ‘great larder of Lancashire’ – as well as the A la carte, they offer a 4 or
5 course Gourmet Menu; the full Tasting Menu and the exceptional value Seasonal
Lunch.
It was from the Seasonal
Lunch that I made my choices. Starters and mains are priced at just £5 each and
mains at £15 – 3 courses, including coffee, bread, canapés and petit fours can
be enjoyed for just £28… amazing value for Michelin dining. (Being a greedy so
and so, I naturally ordered an extra starter.)
Canapé: Onion Mousse with Onion Powder &
Lancashire Cheese Wafers
Bread: Lancashire Cheese Rolls (Note the bespoke weaving shuttle used as a napkin holder, a
great nod to the local cotton industries.)
Starter: Three Beets: Yellow, Red & Candy, Pickled
Shallot Hearts, Horseradish, Herbs & Flowers – making good use of the finest
produce from the gardens, this was a delightful dish. The pickled shallots hearts
added a sharp hit of acidity to the dish and the horseradish jelly was suitably
subtle.
Starter: Pressed Grouse, Partridge & Livers,
Quince Jelly, Toast – I do love a good terrine and this was a good terrine.
The quince and basil oil complemented well but I’d have appreciated a more
substantial toast.
Main: Red Leg Partridge Pie, Black Peas, Purple
Sprouting Broccoli, Purée Potatoes –
this was the sort of no nonsense main that may not visually meet everyone’s expectation
of a Michelin starred main. Of course, the flavours within and the gravy were
immense and the mash perfect.
Dessert: Orchard & Plum Artic Roll, Sorbet,
Toasted Almonds – a beautiful dessert, a little more refined than those
you’ll remember from school dinners.
Eccles Cake & Silver Needle White
Tea (Yin Zhen) –
great little Eccles Cake but, as is often the case (even in the best
restaurants) and a regular gripe of mine, the tea was ruined with water that
was far too hot; such a shame when places get a premium product in and show it little
respect.
Northcote
remains one of the North West’s finest restaurants – a must visit for lovers of
refined yet hearty food.
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Couldn't agree more re the Seasonal Lunch being "exceptional value". I go for lunch at least twice a year. The food is superb and the service flawless but relaxed at the same time. It is just a great experience and a great lunch at an amazing price.
ReplyDeleteIt is also worth making the point that you are not limited to one menu so if something takes your fancy from say the a la carte you are free to order that also.
Simon.