Café jem&i

Every December for the past few year it has been tradition that my wife would take her two grown up daughters (my step-daughters) out to a local eatery for a festive meal. This year, one of the girls’ girlfriends was also going to attend. Hearing that partners were invited, and imagining some sort of scene from ‘Sex and the City’ (and knowing that they needed someone to drive) I invited myself to tag along on their girly Christmas lunch (which turned out to be an early evening meal).

Now that they had a chauffeur, the options of where to go increased slightly - my wife asked me to choose a restaurant that was a) ‘not too far’ b) ‘not too expensive’ and c) ‘nice’. jem&i in Didsbury Village, South Manchester immediately sprung to mind.

Opened in 2003 by Jem O’Sullivan (MFDF’s 1999 ‘Best Chef’) & his wife (I), jem&i is a multi award-winning restaurant, well regarded with locals and critics alike. The restaurant’s name is an obvious play on the word ‘Gemini’ due to the fact that they are proud parents of twins – see what they did there? 

The restaurant held a Michelin Bib Gourmand for several years and, more recently, was crowned Cheshire Life’s ‘Best Restaurant’ (2008-09). Despite having good experiences in the past, we have not dined at jem&i for quite some time (in fact, not since their 2006 refit and extension) and were subsequently long overdue a return visit.

Our meal started with a Selection of Bread, Homemade Houmous & Olives (x3) - the olives were great quality; the bread fresh and the flat bread delicious. Being picky, for my taste, the houmous could’ve done with an extra squeeze of lemon juice but for £3.25 a board it was excellent value.

I couldn’t resist the Canapé Mini Fish & Chips, which turned out to be a lightly battered goujon with crispy strands of potato served in a cone of newspaper with a tartare dip and lemon – lovely!

For my starter, I chose Roast Duck Breast with Grilled Black Pudding, Parsnip Puree & Lentil Jus – a fantastic combination of flavours, all cooked to perfection. The crispy parsnip slices delicately balanced on the top were a most welcome addition to the dish.

The girls all opted for the Crispy Salmon & Cod Fishcakes with Dressed Leaves & Basil Mayonnaise – I managed to sneak a couple of tasters and was very impressed.

My wife opted for the Beetroot Falafels with Tzatziki, Feta Cheese & Rocket Salad - my fellow local food blogger at ‘Foods To Try Before You Die’ (see here) recently posted about jem&i’s penchant for rocket, which was evident on this dish. The falafels themselves were wonderful – great colour, texture and taste.

For my main I chose one of the vegetarian options, another rocket fuelled dish, the Filo Pastry with Spinach, Chestnuts & Sage Derby Cheese with Rocket Salad – the warm, whole black olives (not on the menu) were delicious as was the balsamic reduction. A good vegetarian course, but if I was to make this dish at home I’d perhaps dress the salad with some toasted chestnuts and some crispy sage leaves.

Two of the girls opted for the Confit Duck Leg with Creamed Cabbage, Bacon, Celeriac & Chestnuts, Poached Pear & Red Wine Jus – a wonderfully festive combination; the pear, presented with flair. 

The other two girls (one girl and my wife) went for the Crispy Pork Belly with Cheddar & Onion Mash, Onion Rings & Sticky Spiced Jus – I was unsure about the sprig of rosemary speared into the dish but they seemed very happy. My wife gave me a taste of her pork, which was moist, flavoursome and with great crackling.

Greedy as we are, despite three hearty bread boards we also ordered a side of excellent Brussels Sprouts with Sage Butter; some Caramalised Onion & Cheddar Mash and two portions of Fat Chips (the diets start in January).

All the dessert dishes are priced at £5.25. I chose the Selection of Cheese & Biscuits with Seasonal Chutney – value for money wise, it was very good, although I’d prefer an option to pay a little more for a greater selection or larger quantity of cheese. Pleasingly, jem&i serve my favourite Krohn ports and I treated myself to an incredible 1967 Colheita.

The three girls all plumped for the Classic Eton Mess with Whipped Cream, Meringue & Summer Berries – they complained that it was too tart, but they do all have a particularly sweet tooth so I wouldn’t like to judge. I would question, given the season, why not serve it with ‘winter’ berries? 

My wife chose the Classic Vanilla Crème Brûlée – sadly I cannot let you know what it was like as my wife wolfed it down before I could sneak a taste! She said it was, ‘Perfect!’

All in all a very good meal and excellent value for money. This time, we will make sure it’s not so long before we return. 

Tweet

Follow @HungryHoss

Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester

To quote the lyrics made famous by Andy Williams, “It’s the most wonderful time of the year!” And, although I ate at Alain Ducasse in June 2010, it’s the Christmas season (as well as the three Michelin stars) that I credit for bringing me to the The Dorchester.

Throughout my Top Ten, I have been selecting restaurants for a combination of food, service, décor, ambience, location and what I call a certain ‘x factor’ or ‘je ne sais quoi’ that makes them stand out from the crowd – adding to that, for this post I’d like to include ‘sentimentality.’

Growing up in South East London, each year, around about this time, my mother, father, sister, brother and I would excitedly set off from our family home to make our traditional trip to see the Christmas lights in the West End. This Christmas custom was one that was full of tradition:

Setting off in a festive mood, we would put a tape of Christmas songs in the cassette deck and merrily sing along (you couldn’t beat the inimitable cockney crooning of Chas and Dave’s Christmas Carol Album.)

After travelling across Blackheath and down through Greenwich Park (hopefully swathed in snow), we would cross the river via the Rotherhithe Tunnel. Our first stop would be at Tubby Isaac’s Seafood Stall for some jellied eels, whelks or, my favourite, winkles - then, onto Beigel Bake in Brick Lane for salt beef beigels and a dozen plain bagels for in the morning.

Full of food and festive cheer, the singsong would resume until our arrival at Oxford Street, where our tuneful merry making would be replaced with “Oohh”s and “Aah”s aplenty! The lights there have been a regular source of good cheer since 1959 (although, due to recession the lights were switched off between 1966 and ’78 – it’s heartening to know things have not quite become that desperate again).

Over the years, the lights have been switched on by various luminaries: including the Knights Bachelors: Sir Bob Geldof, Sir Terry Wogan, Sir Cliff Richard, Sir Richard Branson and Sir Steve Redgrave - this year The Saturdays did the honours.

Taking a left at Oxford Circus, we would head down Regent Street towards the bright lights and bustle of Piccadilly. Each year, much to my amusement (and my mother’s annoyance), my dad would throw his hands up, roll his eyes and proclaim, ‘It’s like Piccadilly Circus round here!” Nowadays, much to my amusement (and my wife’s annoyance), I too repeat this joke whenever we are passing through.

The Regent Street Association started the custom of putting up decorations for festive season in 1948 – a year after the first Norway Spruce tree was provided for Trafalgar Square, as a thank you for support during World War II, by the people of Oslo. Decorated each year with hundreds of heavenly white lights, as a child it never failed to fill me with a sense of awe and wonder.

The next leg of the journey took us along The Mall to Buckingham Palace to see if The Queen was at home (Royal Standard = Queen in / The Union Flag = Queen’s popped out). We didn’t like to stop for a mince pie or Dubonnet and Gin, as she would have probably been busy preparing her speech.

Heading up Park Lane, before finally looping back along Oxford Street for a final look at the lights, the next building to wow me as a child was the imposing art deco edifice of, what was designed as ‘the perfect hotel’, The Dorchester.

Since passing the hotel from a young age, I always dreamed of one day staying there. As a young man I worked at the Saudi Arabian Embassy, just around the corner, on Curzon Street; I would often walk up to Hyde Park on my lunch hour and the desire to visit the hotel never diminished.

So it came to pass, when we were planning our foodie trip to London in 2010 and fancied dining in one of the city’s two, three starred restaurants it was Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester that won over Restaurant Gordon Ramsay at Royal Hospital Road.

With three Michelin Stars promising ‘exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey’ I arranged for a limousine to take us to the restaurant – if we were not making a ‘special journey’ we could at least make it one by arriving in a swanky way. Pulling up outside The Dorchester to be greeted by the famous top-hatted hotel porters looking dapper in their famous green uniforms, certainly made us feel regal.

Upon entry through the revolving doors we were overwhelmed with the luxury of The Promenade, one of London’s premier venues for Afternoon Tea. Later in the year we were lucky enough to stay in New York’s Waldorf=Astoria; both hotels opened in 1931 and have many similarities, such as grand pianos in their lobby. Of course the Waldorf’s Steinway once belonged to long term resident Cole Porter. Generally though, the American hotel may be larger with somewhere in the region of six times as many rooms and over double the number of floors, but for me, the London hotel has a uniquely British grandeur, splendor and magnificence that cannot be beaten.

We had arrived early with the intention of enjoying some pre dinner cocktails in The Bar at The Dorchester. I’m not usually a fan of cocktails but my stepson, Joel Fraser, is an Internationally renowned mixologist. Having worked at Melbourne’s Der Raum (The World’s No.1 Bar) and Singapore’s The Tippling Club he know runs The Cufflink Club (click here) an event mixology and bar consultancy company in South East Asia, so I thought he’d appreciate some pictures and a copy of the menu which the barman kindly provided.

As expected, the high ceilinged, oak paneled dining room proved to be a truly magnificent space. At the centre of the dining room the ‘Table Lumière’, encircled by fibre optic strands, acted as the main focal point.

The surrounding tables were elegantly presented with the finest linens, tableware and individual porcelain sculptures – ours was a bunch of garlic. The chairs were comfortable in soft beige leather. Service throughout the meal was excellent.

Our meal started with an ornate dish piled high with Alain Ducasse’s famous Gougères. The recipe for these is readily available online and they have regularly featured at subsequent dinner parties of mine - always going down a storm.

Floating like the leaves of a lotus flower, the amuse bouche on the day was a Ducasse signature dish Shrimp & Lobster Ravioli with a Spicy Ginger Consommé -

Due to the fact that I started this blog almost a year after visiting Alain Ducasse, I only took a few photos for posterity and did obviously not make any notes about the food. As a result, there are parts of the meal that I do not have a pictures for (such as the wonderful breads that did not stop coming – pleasingly served with a salty butter, the kind with crystals in) Similarly there are some dishes which I cannot recall all the details. Suffice to say, at the time we found the food to be excellent.

My starter was agreeably spiced John Dory Gougonettes (although it could’ve been Halibut) – the broccoli and carrots were cooked perfectly al dente apple matchsticks; tropical notes came from the shards of coconut and cube of jelly and the curried sauce was lifted with the sweetness from neat matchsticks of apple.

I fail to recall what my wife’s starter was called or how it tasted but it was another fine example of classic French cookery – the egg on top was cooked to perfection.

Simply, yet elegantly served, my main of Ox Cheek with Vegetables was delightful. Although I recall not being wowed by the presentation (from a three star establishment I expected something more ornate, artistic and precise), I had to remind myself that I came to Alain Ducasse for flawless classical French cookery – and that’s exactly what we got. Some ‘fine dining’ restaurants these days serve food that I like to call ‘all fur coat and no knickers’ where it looks the part but lacks basics – i.e. flavour. The food we were served at Alain Ducasse may not have had the ‘fur coat’ but it had good, solid knickers – the kind your Granny used to knit.

My wife’s main was a farfalle pasta dish – or ‘action man bow ties’ as Alan Partridge calls them.

Before the desserts, we were served a cheese course. As tasty as the cheeses were with their paired condiments, I do prefer to make my own selection from a trolley, as it’s a great way to learn about the cheese.

Served in a funky glass bowl shaped like a sweetie, my chosen dessert was a Contemporary Vacherin made with exotic fruits. Not to be confused with the cheese of the same name, a traditional vacherin dessert consists of rings of meringue filled with fresh fruits and a Chantilly cream and is named due to its whiteness and similar circular appearance to its cheesy namesake. This version with its accompanying dice of tropical fruits was a triumph, with the passion fruit leading the charge.

As you can see in the picture, my wife was very pleased with her choice of dessert – although memory fails us as to exactly what it was.

We finished the meal with some tea and a stunningly delicious array of petit fours. I opted for my favourite green tea. A nice touch was the availability of a ‘tea sommelier’ (not an official title) who had a trolley of honey and fresh herbs and plants for those wishing to have a freshly made tisane or infusion.

The petit fours included macarons, chocolates, pralines, nougat and assorted caramels. My wife raved about the salted caramel but it was the passion fruit one that won the day for me. The lemon, mint and milk chocolate macarons were up there with the best I have tasted. 

Tweet

Follow @HungryHoss

Comer 24, Barcelona

My very own Top Ten would not be complete or credible without an entry from Barcelona - a city which itself regularly features in (or leads) lists of the world’s top ten best gastronomical cities.

Barcelona, is Spain’s second largest city (after Madrid) and is the capital of the autonomous community of Catalunya. My love affair with the region began at an early age - my parents were regular visitors from the late sixties onwards and throughout my youth we took numerous Spanish holidays, favouring small fishing villages such as Tamariu, Sa Tuna, Salvador Dalí’s hometown of Cadaqués and St Marti d'Empuries (the home of many wonderful paella memories).

Seafood at Barcelona's La Boqueria Market

Modern chefs such as Heston, Ferran Adrià and the Roca Bros frequently talk about the emotion of food and the memories, when you taste something from your childhood, which it can arouse. Some of my most vivid gourmet experiences are rooted in the Catalan cuisine of my early family holidays.

Squid Ink dishes at Tapaç 24

Of course, I have particularly fond memories of the fabulous Catalunyan seafood – and thoughts of squid cooked in its ink and Sardinas barbequed on the beach, served with traditional Pan con Tomate evoke just as much excitement and pleasure as thoughts of selecting a lobster from a huge restaurant tank. (To quote Adrià, “Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster.”)

Cal Pep's Mongetes amb Botifarra

Seafood is not the only cuisine of Catalunya, and it was in typically homely restaurants in picturesque medieval towns, such as Pals that I developed my adoration for rabbit and the regional specialty Mongetes amb Botifarra or beans and sausage (a world away from the Heinz stuff in a tin). Although, it was in one such restaurant that I had an unfortunate run in with a pig’s trotter - for a long time, they were one of the few foods that I was reluctant to try again. Until, that is, I had Marco’s (Pierre White) ‘Pig's Trotter Pierre Koffmann’ – I now love them.

Pigs at Barcelona's La Boqueria Market

Later on in life, I spent more time in the province, choosing to study part of my degree at the Universitat de Vic and teaching at a school in Cerdanyola del Vallès. It was during this time that I discovered the wonderful restaurants of Barcelona – or, more commonly on my student budget, the amazing tapas bars and the phenomenal La Boqueria Market. 

On recent visits to the city, as well as revisiting the traditional tapas bars, such as the excellent Cal Pep, I have ‘discovered’ the ‘new breed’ of modern tapas in places such as Ferran and Albert Adrià’s Inopia or, their former collaborator, Carles Abellan's Tapaç 24.

These, more informal tapas joints, excellent as they are, only hint at the decadent delights that Barcelona has to offer; namely a whole constellation of ‘estrellas de la buena mesa’ or Michelin stars. Sadly, despite regularly trying, I was never able to secure a table at elBulli prior to its recent closure and have yet to eat at (the current world’s number two restaurant) El Celler de Can Roca or Catalonia’s other three-starred restaurant, Sant Pau - hopefully 2012 will rectify that. I have, however, eaten at a handful of the city’s one-starred establishments and for me the pick of the bunch is Carles Abellan's Comerç 24.

Catalunya has a rich history with the arts. As well as the obvious, Salvador Dalí - Barcelona boasts the brilliant Picasso and Joan Miró museums and Gaudi’s magnificent buildings, Park Güel and masterly centrepiece La Sagrada Família.  Likewise, the literary luminaries Oscar Wilde and Ernest Hemingway are closely associated with the city, where they were known to frequent such hangouts as Bar Marsella, London Bar and Quatre Gats to knock back the occasional Green Fairy (absinthe).

As an aside, for a more contemporary Barcelona born artist, check out the works of Jaume Plensa - the Catalan artist and sculptor responsible for ‘The Dream’ at the old Sutton Manor Colliery Site, Merseyside, which I often travel past, when on the M62.

El Quim in Barcelona's la Boqueria Market

An artistic vibe still permeates the city but for me, the best art in Spain these days comes, not from painters, sculptors, writers or musicians but from the creative culinary genius of gastronomic gods such as Ferran Adrià and the Roca Brothers.

Although I have used this quote before (see here), Ferran once said, "Food is the new Rock 'n' Roll.” and one such undoubtedly Rock 'n' Roll chef and artist is Carles Abellan. Before the Harley Davison riding, Rolling Stones fan (he cites Mick Jagger dining in his restaurant as a highlight of his career) opened Comerç 24 and its subsequent offshoot enterprises, Carles worked at elBulli for seven years and spent further fruitful years heading up other Adrià projects such as the Olympic Port’s Talaia Mar Restaurant and the elBulli Hotel, Hacienda Benazuza in Seville.

The restaurant itself is dark, stark and modern with an industrial edge softened by bold artworks and pops of primary colours that are often echoed in the strikingly beautiful food. At Comerç 24, dishes tend to arrive in synergised clusters. The first of such coalitions featured deliciously plump Gordal Olives with Anchovies; decadent ‘Golden’ Macadamia Nuts; an attractive Avocado Involtini (think inverted California roll or maki) with Wild Lobster and a perfect Oyster, topped with a Beetroot Foam, Chives, Pepper & Red Shiso.

We were also presented with an Olive Oil tasting selection, featuring Merula, Santa Olivia and Pórtico de la Villa from Córdoba. I find the Pórtico de la Villa, intensely fruity with a subtle bitterness and peppery kick – it was my favourite of the evening and it is yet to be bettered. So far, I have been unable to source a supplier in the UK, but fortunately by parents bring me a 2 litre tin every time they travel over from their home in Spain; which I then have to ration myself with for it to last between visits.

Next up came a beautifully light and Summery Dashi Broth with Sea Urchin & Cockles - the delicate flowers adding a hint of pepper and a flourish of floral elegance.

Alongside, we were served a Sardine Salad with Oranges & Wasabi – the marinated sardines were heavenly, stuffed with fresh wasabi root; the oranges provided a citrusy sweetness and the toasted breadcrumbs and pistachios gave the dish texture. 

Following this, a trio of spherifications: Truffle, Parmesan & Quail Yolks - wonderfully swathed in a warm scented, Black Truffle Consommé. The dish may not look particularly inspiring but it was technically exceptional and tasted exquisite.

The next alliance of dishes to arrive featured a Razor Clam & Mandarin Yakisoba and Tuna Tartare with Roe & Egg Yolk Vinaigrette. Mirroring the colours of the Catalonian flag, the vibrant egg yolk vinaigrette, contrasted dramatically with the red flesh of the precisely diced tuna – the flavours in perfect synergy. The final component in this trinity was a dinky Tuna Pizza – a crisp pizza base, topped with slices of sashimi tuna, shards of spring onion, radish and a zesty lemon dressing.

The next parade of dishes began with the first of a couple of savoury ice creams. The first being and Artichoke Ice Cream with a Salt Cod Foam topped with Caramel & Peanuts – an unusual flavour, texture and temperature combination but one which I thoroughly enjoyed.

The second of the savoury ice cream was made with Foie Gras which accompanied an umami rich Duck Risotto with Toasted Cornmeal – my wife’s favourite dish from the meal.

Also in this section was the Cod with Peanut Sauce, Spinach & Olive Oil.

The final savoury dish was Grilled Sirloin with White Sesame – perfectly cooked beef with a wonderful array of texturally interesting accompaniments.

Next up came a Selection of Spanish Cheeses - each was paired with its own condiments and a cuddle of cute cracker style pillows.

Whereas most of the previous courses had arrived in threes, the dessert came as a group of six! I remember thinking, ‘I don’t know where to start!’ That thought didn’t last long, as I took a bite of the ‘Oreo Cookies’ – black sesame ‘biscuits’ with a silky smooth vanilla crème filling. Sharing the slate, a chocolate coated Nougat Ice Cream, topped with a Tuile Cigar, Spanish Almonds with a hint of Coffee.

Alongside these were, a crumbly Sablé with Pineapple & Meringue and the intriguing dessert combination of Bread, Oil, Chocolate & Salt – a quenelle of intensely chocolaty and creamy ‘mousse’; drizzled in olive oil; topped with a wafer thin toast and a pinch on Maldon salt. It may sound wrong but I found it delicious!

My favourite of the desserts however, was the final pairing, the lip-smacking Shot of Mandarin, Passion Fruit & Mint and the Muesli which included Yoghurt Espuma, Mango, Tapioca Pearls, Passion Fruit Seeds, Raspberry, Nut Praline & Basil Leaves.

To complement the many Eastern influences throughout the meal, I deemed it appropriate to end with a Japanese Sencha Green Tea; served with some delightful petit fours - the mini Matcha Chocolate Bars and the ingots of Golden Chocolate were a fitting end to an indulgent, imaginative and inspired meal.

A deserving 5^th place in my Hungry Hoss Top Ten!

Tweet

Follow @HungryHoss