Friday, 20 July 2012

SoLita Bar & Grill, Manchester

WARNING! Below you will find pictures and descriptions of what could well be some of the tastiest and naughtiest food being served anywhere in Manchester at the moment.


DISCLAIMER: I cannot be held responsible for your imminent overindulgence and burgeoning waistlines. (Top tip: wear loose fitting clothing… preferably with elasticated waistbands.) Please also be aware that I ate all this as a guest of the restaurant and did not pay for the food! 


Another point to note is that the pictures contained below show ‘tasters’ and, in some cases, trial versions from the new menu. Expect real portions to be bigger and/or presented differently.


Readers who follow me on Twitter may be aware that on Wednesday I was invited to a special ‘press lunch’ – we were given a ‘Press Release’ but I’m not going quote from it as I’m pretty sure you will have read the information already in several blog posts, and various other print and online media.


Instead, I’ll give you some insight to some of the ‘behind the scenes’ previews that I was lucky to be a part of over the last few weeks, building up to what has been called the ‘hottest opening of the year!’.

Bacon Jam on Sourdough Toast
Before you get too excited… no, I cannot provide you with details of the secret ingredients in their SoLita Rub; reveal the mysteries of the delicious Bacon Jam on Sourdough Toast or the cloak-and-dagger techniques behind the infamous Deep Fried Coke.

Deep Fried Coke

Several weeks ago I got a phone call from Dom Sotgiu - the former Manager at the popular Teacup on Thomas Street (see here). Dom informed me that he was now managing a new restaurant based in the Margolis building; conveniently situated with easy access to the main thoroughfare of the Northern Quarter and Manchester’s Market Street.

Inka Grilled Veg with Smoked Butter
As “someone who knows about food”, Dom wanted my opinion on the proposed menu – this is before the SoLita name was born.


Mac 'n' Cheese Burger with Pulled Pork

From day one, dishes such as the Truffled Egg on Toast; Prestwich Salt Beef with 60/40 Mash and Mac ‘n’ Cheese with Pulled Pork caught my eye.
  

Whilst, I was the first to admit that a) this was not the cuisine which I generally write about, and b) the whole trendy NQ thing is not my usual scene – what peaked my interest and kept me returning to taste and advise* over the last few weeks was Dom’s passion to source good quality organic and free range ingredients; cook from fresh and with love. (*See me as a freeloading taste consultant.)

Rooster Scratchings
Drawing from Dom’s Irish Italian heritage as well as his knowledge and understanding of the unique vibe of the Northern Quarter, the menu soon started to take shape and look like something I’d like – a menu with obvious ‘New York’ Italian influences with a home-grown Manchester ‘edge’.

Salt Cod Balls with Salsa Verde Mayo
Striking a perfect synergy of all that is good from NY, Italy and MCR also come from the owner – a down to earth, Salford born, ex-army “scally done good” that I’d describe as a ‘proper Manc’ – not your choc-ice tweeting premiership footballer or fat tongued mockney that may own other ‘Italian’ restaurants in the city.

'Olives and things'

Of course SoLita is not just another Italian restaurant, the name refers to it’s location ‘South of Little Italy’ as Ancoats was once well known and not the cuisine - although the Italian influence can be seen on the menu with the excellent Inka Grilled Veg with Percorino and Orzo Pasta; the homely Uovo Pomodoro with Sourdogh Soldiers and some top notch Nocerella Olives (and things) from Sicily.

Cabrelli's Ice Cream with Bacon Candy
The Italian connection also come’s from the inclusion, on a number of the dessert dishes, of Cabrelli’s Ice Cream - one of the area’s original ‘ice-cream families’.

Uovo Pomodoro
Over the last six weeks I managed to blag my way to a number of tastings - some dishes fell by the wayside (I lament the loss of the Bury Black Pudding ‘Boudin Balls’)


Most however, with a few tweaks, developed into top notch menu items – a few, I’m sure, are set to become some of the most talked about plates of food currently being served anywhere in Manchester.

Pulled Pork Sundaes

One dish that has already caused quite a stir on Twitter is the Pulled Pork Sundae – at first I thought this was a bit of a gimmick but soon realised this dish can more than talk the talk. The 60/40 mash is a heart-stoppingly good combination of 60% potato and 40% butter; the pulled port is meaty and generous and the BBQ sauce is one of the best I have tasted.

Classic Burger with bone marrow and Triple Cooked Chips

When I hear the phrase ‘Dirty burger’, I think sleazy, greasy and wrapped in paper. SoLita’s Burgers are made with high quality chuck steak supplied by @frostybutcher and studded with bone marrow which melts in the Inka Grill to give that desired chin dribbling sensation – that served within the sweet demi-brioche bun makes for an altogether more high class level ‘sleazy snack’ – think the ‘Belle de Jour’ of burgers!

It's all about the INKA!

One thing that makes the burgers so good is the Inka Grill – I have written about the merits of these before in one of my posts about Aiden Byrne’s The Church Green (see here) but SoLita is the first restaurant in Manchester to have an Inka in their kitchen (MCFC have one too but they’re not a restaurant).

Hanger Steak and Triple Cooked Chips
Another Inka Grill dish is the Hanger Steak - prized for its flavour, this cut was traditionally kept back by the butcher, hence its nickname the "butcher's steak".


As with all steaks, tenderness can be sacrificed for flavour but the Inka Grill cooking method makes works wonders to readdress the balance. The result is one of the best Hanger steaks you’ll eat – it was certainly one of the most popular dishes amongst my fellow bloggers at the official tasting.

Jacobs Ladder
Another star of the Inka Grill section of the menu is undoubtedly the Jacob’s Ladder short rib – 48 hours in the sous vide water bath followed by a charring in the Inka makes for a cut of meat that tastes as impressive as it looks!

Inka Grilled Pineapple

For me, the Inka Roasted Pineapple, marinated in Havana 7 Rum and molasses is the standout dessert.


I could go on and on about the cocktails, craft beers, ales and ciders and house wines, served in carafes but you’re much better off going and seeing for yourself. There’s bound to be a tipple that takes your fancy – personal favourites include the Fentiman’s sodas, excellent coffee and unusual smoked Bavarian beer Schlenkerla Rauchbier.


With private dining spaces available and a stylish clubby basement, SoLita should surely become one of the city’s busiest hotspots - so get there early; be prepared to queue and remember my warnings!  



Thursday, 19 July 2012

Gorilla, Manchester

According to Wikipedia, ‘Gorillas comprise the eponymous genus Gorilla, the largest extant genus of primates. They are ground-dwelling, predominantly herbivorous apes that inhabit the forests of central Africa.’


Gorilla, on the other hand, belongs to the genus Trof, its sister restaurant in the Northern Quarter. It is an arch-dwelling establishment inhabiting the former ‘Green Room’ on Whitworth Street West.



In a seemingly herbivorous homage to our hairy ancestors I swerved the ‘Burger’ and ‘Gorilla Dog’ that I had heard good things about and instead opted for the ‘Spicy Bean Burger’ and a ‘Sweet Potato Wrap’.


Sweet Potato Wrap (£5.00) I ordered this in lieu of a starter and was impressed - the spiced carrot chutney had a punchy hit of spiciness and the other component ingredients (hummus, tzatziki & spinach leaves) were all good.


Spicy Bean Burger (£7.50) I was equally impressed with the burger. The toasted sesame brioche bun was a winner – as was more of the delicious carrot chutney and tzatziki with crisp butterhead lettuce and decent fries.


Roast Butternut Squash (£3.50) This was good value but I’d like the squash to have been peeled; the red onions a little less burnt and a tad more chilli - the sage was a nice touch.


Deluxe Fries (£3.50) my online dictionary defines deluxe as ‘particularly elegant and luxurious; sumptuous’. These were seasoned with a small amount of Parmesan cheese and truffle oil – not as deluxe as they could’ve been. It pains me to say it but Jamie’s ‘Posh Chips’ are better and 25p cheaper.


Rubicon Mango (£1.00) can’t grumble for a quid. There is also a good range of bottled beers, ciders, sodas, smoothies, spirits, cocktails and other beverages.


All in all, a good meal at Gorilla – I’ll definitely be back! I hear they do a good roast on a Sunday.

Gorilla on Urbanspoon



Tuesday, 17 July 2012

Chaophraya, Manchester

A quick post about Chaophraya – ‘Thai fine dining’ in Manchester.


Chaophraya, as their website boldly states, supposedly offers ‘the ultimate Thai fine dining experience.’


Housed in the building above Sam’s Chop House on Chapel Walks, the décor is certainly impressive. It would take pretty special food to live up to the surroundings – sadly I did not feel this was the case, on the strength of my lunchtime visit.


I took advantage of their set price lunchtime deal of two courses for £10.50; supplemented with a Papaya Salad.


To start I selected the Tempura Vegetables – I found the batter to be average at best. The accompanying ‘sweet & sour plum sauce’ was far more sweet than sour. If I was in the habit or rating food out of ten this dish would struggle to score more than a five. Local chain Tampopo serves a much better batter in my opinion.


For my main I opted for the Tofu Pad Thai Noodles. The dish consisted of stir-fried rice noodles with egg, carrot, spring onion, sweet turnip and bean sprouts served with ground peanuts and lemon. I found the whole thing a little stodgy and bland. Another five.


My Papaya Salad proved to be a little better - if feeling generous I’d give it a seven.  The component ingredients (shredded papaya, carrot, tomato and lettuce) were fresh and crisp. A few more peanuts for added texture and a greater quantity of lime and chilli would’ve added some welcome zing and taken the edge of the over sweet palm sugar sauce. I enjoyed the sticky rice balls served on the side.

I would be interested to go back one evening with a group of people to see if my opinion changes. 





Chaophraya on Urbanspoon

Square Meal

Monday, 16 July 2012

Koya Japanese Udon, London

A quick post about Koya - Japanese Udon, London.


For those that don’t know, Koya is a Japanese noodle house, specialising in Udon. In many ways, it deserves more time and words from me but, then again, their (deceptively) ‘simple food’ speaks for itself.


Located on Frith Street in London’s Soho, since opening a couple of years ago they have won numerous awards and accolades, including a Michelin ‘Bib Gourmand’ (which promises ‘good food at moderate prices).

Great reviews by bloggers and the print media alike (including Time Out, Metro, The Times, The Guardian and The Independent to name a few) have helped to establish Koya as one of the capitals busiest informal eateries – but perhaps more ore telling than the opinions of a few snooty foodists (myself included) is the queue of people that frequently line the pavements.  


In their own words, ‘KOYA is a restaurant of food and space to offer both purity and quality, without exaggeration or pretension.’ Words which, ironically may sound pretentions but after one visit, I’m sure you’ll agree they are not.


Using old school foot kneading techniques, their authentic wheat noodles are made fresh each day; the dashi base stock too is freshly made in house – together they are slurpingly good!


Udon wise, Koya has a number of options: Atsu-Atsu (hot udon in hot broth); Hiya-Atsu (cold udon with hot broth); Zaru Udon (cold udon with cold dipping sauce) or Hiyashi Udon (cold udon with cold sauce to pour) – it was hot outside, so I selected a refreshing Hiyashi Saba.


Hiyashi Saba (£10:50) consisted of a bowl of the excellent udon noodles with a sufficient amount of smoked mackerel (saba) to enable a smoky sensation to every bite. The umami rich sauce and fresh green leaves with lemon completed a healthy, clean tasting meal.


As well as the udon dishes, Koya also offer ‘Donburi’ rice bowls served with miso soup and various ‘Small plates’ featuring salads, pickles, tempura and alike.  


From the specials board I also selected a portion of Baby turnip pickles (£2.80) – I’ve always been a fan of anything pickled whether it be eggs, gherkins or rollmops. Perversely, I think this love stemmed childhood visits to the Horniman and Grant museums where I’d stare fascinated into the jars of pickled primates, dissected domestic cats and dogs, fetuses in formaldehyde and the Grant’s famed ‘jar of pickled moles’. The turnips were less fascinating but I’m sure much more delicious.


The above two dishes would have been enough to make a satisfying lunch but I could not resist also ordering the Tofu and broad bean dumpling with Turnip “Agedashi” listed on the specials board (£6.70). The silken tofu made for a light airy textured dumpling, pleasantly dotted with the bite of the beans.

I’d like to remind my Manchester readers of Yuzu in Chinatown (see here) the closest thing we, in the North, have to Koya and another place worthy in my mind of one of Michelin’s Bib Gourmands – the choice isn’t as wide as Koya but the quality is on par.


Check out the entertaining review by fellow Manchester based blogger, Foods To Try Before You Die (here).






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