When Simon Rogan announced his decision to end his tenure with The French, the news was softened for fans of the iconic restaurant by the announcement that his protégé Adam Reid would be taking over the reins, with his name above the Grade II listed doors.
Simon vows to one day return to the city, stating that he has “unfinished business” – well, so does Adam, and it didn’t take long for the young chef to put his stamp on the restaurant.
A mini refurb has not only seen a new edgier colour scheme but now there is an open kitchen in the dining room where the hugely talented, young pastry chef Zara Fenty and her colleagues plate the desserts and other goodies. There is also music, a more relaxed service and more flexibility with menu choices. Changes which hopefully, Michelin will approve.
What Michelin say, ‘An intimate hotel restaurant created in the Belle Époque age and now brought up-to-date. Dinner sees a set menu, while lunch is more flexible. Boldly flavoured modern dishes focus on one main ingredient; desserts are playful.’
Cod's roe and pine nut oil mousse
Raw prawn, fermented tomato
Asparagus fried in nut oil. shrimp sauce
Tater ‘ash, Mrs Raffalde’s mushroom catsup
Lancashire Tasty and onion tart, lovage and salad
Wild sea trout, watercress, pickled elderflower
Cumbrian lamb, peas, lettuce, ramson juices
Strawberry with white chocolate
Date of dinner: 05/07/17