Friday, 17 June 2016

Mugaritz, June 2016 #TwoMichelinStars

This season at Mugaritz it’s out with the new and in with the old. It seems that Chef Andoni Luis Aduriz has pawned the family silver and other “effeminate pieces of finery” as diners are served 24 courses, made up almost entirely of “finger food”.


As @misscellania points out on her article ‘The Origin of the Fork’, “Centuries ago, few people had ever heard of a “place setting.” When a large piece of meat was set on the table (sometimes on a platter, sometimes directly on the table), diners grabbed the whole thing with their free hand… then pulled out a knife and sliced off a piece with their other hand. Most eating was done with fingers: Common people ate with all five, while nobles -who understood sophisticated table manners- ate with only three (thumb, forefinger, and middle).”

The “first table forks probably originated at the royal courts of the Middle East, where they were in use as early as the seventh century. About 1100 AD, they appeared in the Tuscany region of Italy, but they were considered “shocking novelties,” and were ridiculed and condemned by clergy, who insisted that “only human fingers, created by God, were worthy to touch God’s bounty.” Forks were “effeminate pieces of finery,” as one historian puts it, used by sinners and sissies but not by decent, God-fearing folk.”

“Forks became more popular during the late 17th century, but it wasn’t until the 18th century that they were widely used in continental Europe as a means of conveying food “from plate to mouth.” The reason: French nobles saw forks as a way to distinguish themselves from commoners. “The fork became a symbol of luxury, refinement, and status,” writes Charles Panati. “Suddenly, to touch food with even three bare fingers was gauche.”

I must be gauche – I loved it!


Regaliz pan con mantequilla de sardine
Liquorice bread with sardine butter


“Me crujen las tripas”
“My guts are growling”


Ostras escarchadas con vinagre
Candied oysters and vinegar


Pasta viva con anchoas, en vinagre
Live pasta and anchovies, in vinegar


Almejas glaseadas con limón
Clams glazed with lemon


Arroz madre cocido con caviar
Cooked mother, rice and caviar


“Tuétano” de anchoas
Anchovy “marrow”


Merengue cocido de lino con queso
Cooked meringue of flaxseed and cheese


Salpicón granizado de txangurro y yema
Salpicon granite of crab and yolk


Nube de guisantes lágrimas
Tear-drop pea cloud


Espárragos rellenos…
Filled asparagus…



Tuétanos de col asados
Grilled cabbage marrows


Salmonete en colorá
Red mullet in colorá


Fritura fría de mole con chipirón
Cold fried mole and squid


Pescado azul cocido bajo una nube de salazones
Oily fish cooked under a salted cloud


Merluza, fideos de leche
Hake, milk threads



Costilla con pan “sopa”
Rib and “soup” bread


Mollejas y ajos
Sweetbread and garlic


Paté caliente
Hot paté



Hojas aliñadas con cochino
Leaves dressed with pork


Del amargo al dulce
From bitter to sweet


Texturas de leche
Textures of milk


Malvavisco elástica
Elasticated marshmallow


Madre de kombucha y fresas
Kombucha mother and strawberries


A cada uno lo suyo…
To each his own…




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