Saturday, 26 September 2015

Dabbous, London #MichelinStar

Since it opened back in 2012, Dabbous has remained one of London’s “hottest tickets”. On every visit I’ve made to the capital in the last couple of years I’ve tried and failed to get a reservation. Our booking cancelled at the ill fated Le Chabanais (it closed just a few days before our planned trip), I logged onto Dabbous’s website with feint hope of securing a last minute table...  my luck was finally in!

Making fine use of quality ingredients, the Tomato Bread was a delightfully simple and delicious dish, so much so we ordered two extra servings.

We decided to order from the a la carte over the Set Lunch and Tasting menus. As you’d expect the Spring Onion and Pea & Mint dishes were light and fresh with subtle flavours. The Smoked Eel and Langoustine impressed too for their sophistication and clarity - the Langoustine especially being a bold, confident yet unshowy dish.

In terms of impact and flavour, the dish that really wowed was the Quail – the flavours of fenugreek and sweet clover coming defty balanced and enlivened through smart textural interactions of crunchy lettuce, smooth puree, earthy quinoa and almonds.

What Michelin say, “One of the hottest tickets in town - the kitchen adopts the 'less is more' approach; the food comes with elegantly restrained finesse and a bewitching purity. Most have the 7-course menu with its stimulating and sublime combinations of ingredients. The ersatz industrial room has a simple elegance.

Toasted Mixed Nuts with Honey & Espelette

Tomato on Toast

Peas & Mint

Spring Onions with Marigold Leaves, Lime, Pistachio & Fresh Sheep Milk Curds

Smoked Eel in a Light Broth

Grilled Langoustines, Fennel Pollen & Virgin Rapeseed Oil Mayonnaise

Grilled Quail with Fenugreek, Quinoa, Lettuce & Clover

Roast Veal Fillet with Summer Vegetables, Basil & Spenwood

Raspberries with Barley & Strained Yoghurt

Strawberry Tart

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