Saturday 3 October 2015

Paradise Garage, London

Set back from Cambridge Heath Road in Bethnal Green, you’ll find some ace graffiti and Paradise Row – a row of railway arches now living up to their name thanks to the likes of Mission, Mother Kelly’s, Resident and, of course, Paradise Garage – the latest restaurant from the team behind The Dairy and The Manor.

One of a new raft of new, exciting, accessible places to eat in London, the Tasting Menu is available for just £45. Diners may also opt for a sharing ‘Picnic’ or from a concise menu of small plates and snacks, which range in price from £6.50 to just over a tenner. In vogue, showcasing seasonal ingredients, the menu is divided into sections including ‘Garden’ ‘Sea’ and ‘Land’.

With bursts of pure flavours, wonderful textures and artful presentations, every dish was a treat but my favourites included the Venison tartare, beautiful enriched by the preserved egg yolk and Cornish crab, enlivened by pickled kohlrabi and the sharp tang of charred lemon pieces.

Other winning dishes included the bold Salt cod brandade and the stimulating combination of velvety Lamb heart with the taste of a subtle ferment from young “fennel kimchi” and warming black pepper.

Cornish Crab, kohlrabi, apple & grilled lemon

Salt Cod Brandade, squid ink, olives & shellfish crisp

Venison Tartare, preserved egg yolk & watercress

Lamb Heart, fennel kimchi & black pepper

Isle of Wight tomatoes, eel jelly, nasturtium

Globe artichokes, Padrón peppers, fresh curd, herb & chilli salsa

Ibérico Presa pig head, coco beans, anchovy & lettuce

Black Figs, Macadamia nuts, buttermilk & fig leaf ice cream

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