Set back from Cambridge Heath Road in Bethnal Green, you’ll find some ace graffiti and Paradise Row – a row
of railway arches now living up to their name thanks to the likes of Mission, Mother Kelly’s, Resident and, of course, Paradise Garage – the latest restaurant from the team behind The Dairy and The Manor.
One of a new raft of new, exciting, accessible places
to eat in London, the Tasting Menu is available for just £45. Diners may also
opt for a sharing ‘Picnic’ or from a concise menu of small plates and snacks,
which range in price from £6.50 to just over a tenner. In vogue, showcasing
seasonal ingredients, the menu is divided into sections including ‘Garden’
‘Sea’ and ‘Land’.
With bursts of pure flavours,
wonderful textures and artful presentations, every dish was a treat but my favourites included the Venison tartare, beautiful enriched by the preserved egg yolk and Cornish crab, enlivened by pickled kohlrabi
and the sharp tang of charred lemon pieces.
Other winning dishes included the
bold Salt cod brandade and the stimulating combination of velvety Lamb heart with the taste
of a subtle ferment from young “fennel kimchi” and warming black pepper.
Cornish Crab, kohlrabi,
apple & grilled lemon
Salt Cod Brandade,
squid ink, olives & shellfish crisp
Venison Tartare,
preserved egg yolk & watercress
Lamb Heart, fennel
kimchi & black pepper
Isle of Wight
tomatoes, eel jelly, nasturtium
Globe artichokes, Padrón
peppers, fresh curd, herb & chilli salsa
Ibérico Presa pig
head, coco beans, anchovy & lettuce
Black Figs, Macadamia
nuts, buttermilk & fig leaf ice cream
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