The Stagg Inn holds the
distinction of being the first pub in the world to be awarded a Michelin star –
an accolade it proudly retains to this day.
Having visited a fair few of the Michelin starred pubs, I’ve come to the
conclusion that I generally prefer those which manage to retain a ‘pubby’ feel.
The Stagg is quite ‘restauranty’ but the small bar area, complete with its
collection of over 200 “pub jugs” and the warm, friendly greeting from the
staff help to retain some ‘pubishness’.
What Michelin say: ‘Part-medieval,
part-Victorian pub with a delightfully cosy interior. Cooking is fittingly
straightforward, relying on classically based recipes, careful preparation and
top quality produce. Menus are short, simple and to the point, while the dishes
themselves are truly satisfying.’
Appetisers, came in the form of Crisps
with a balsamic espuma and some Olive
and chilli bread – they went will with a swift half of the local Dunkertons
cider.
On the outskirts of Herefordshire, on the Welsh border, it seemed churlish
not to order the locally reared beef. How could I not order the Steak tartare with truffle? And, at
just £16.90, including sides, the rump
steak seemed too good a deal to pass up.
Steak tartare, truffle –
generally relying on memory, I don’t always take notes but this is what I wrote
for the tartare – “delightfully flavoured, cool, beefy with a little chilli
lingering… truffle too subtle?” I have no idea what I meant by “cool”.
Sweetbreads, smoked bone marrow,
artichoke – this was a stunning, almost Japanesey dish; the smoked
marrow gave the light broth an almost dashi like suggestion.
Herefordshire rump steak, cherry
tomatoes, béarnaise sauce, chips, salad leaves – along
with excellent triple cooked chips (refreshingly referred to just as “chips” on
the menu), a top notch béarnaise and a delightfully dressed salad this was one
of the tastiest and best value for money steaks I’ve eaten. Who said, Michelin
starred food had to be expensive?
Rhubarb jelly and compote, meringue,
orange sorbet
The Stagg Inn is definitely a place I'd return to next time I am in the area.
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