Saturday 18 April 2015

64° revisited, Brighton #BibGourmand

I once read that shit bloggers always start their posts with a quote (I didn’t really read that but it’s probably true). Anyways… a wise Chinese philosopher (Bruce Lee) once said, ‘Mistakes are always forgivable, if one has the courage to admit them. 

Well, I admit to making a mistake. In November last year, after hearing so many good things and reading great reviews, I visited Brighton’s 64°. Despite it having a Michelin Bib Gourmand and my dining companions loving it, I left unconvinced.

Having vowed to return to give them another go, I did and it seems that everyone else was right! 64° is good. No, wait… I’m mistaken yet again… 64° is great!

With a small regularly changing menu of four fish, four veg and four meat dishes, the food at 64° is perfect for sharing. As a table of six, we decided to order one of each item (and get extras of the ones we liked most).

The general consensus seemed to be that the Tuna, Jerusalem artichokes and the delightfully summery Tomato dishes were the best.

Six perfectly seared slivers of Tuna came drizzled with passion fruit jus and jewels of pomegranate scattered like they’d fallen from a ransacked Hatton Garden safety deposit box. I hated having to share this one and regret not greedily ordering a plate for myself.

Baked and then fried, the Jerusalem artichoke were fabulous little things. We had eaten some cooked in a similar way at Silo the previous evening and enjoyed them too. I’ve had a go at making them at home but haven’t yet got the skins as caramelised.

Of the meat dishes, everyone’s fave was the Beef rib with bone marrow, wild leek and parsley purée. It was so tender you could’ve cut it with a spoon; luckily we had a knife so we used that.

Although not a fan of them last time, the Chicken wings with kimchi and Barkham Blue cheese were also a winner; the chicken skin was crispier than before and its kimchi coating had a wonderfully deep fermented smack of chilli. The kimchi tuile/wafer/crisp (or whatever they call it) was good too.

The only thing that didn’t completely work for me was the hazelnut purée with the Venison haunch but I’d say that more down to personal taste than any technical or conceptual problems.

I think it's going to become tradition that we eat here everytime we visit Brighton.

Squid, pancetta, celeriac, chilli, gomasio

Salmon, malt, daikon, maple

Scallops, lemongrass, rhubarb – lemongrass purée

Tuna, passion fruit, pomegranate

Jerusalem artichoke, peanut, watercress

Fennel, Sussex Charmer, lemon

Alexander buds, cultured yoghurt, lime

Chicken wings, kimchi, Barkham

Lamb chump, aubergine, garlic, buttermilk

Venison haunch, beets, hazelnut

Beef rib, bone marrow, wild leek, parsley

Rhubarb, oat, whey

Passion fruit, Onken yoghurt, walnut

Chocolate, salted caramel, dulce de leche

Boozy fellas 
Rub bear jelly


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