I’m going to be 40 this year… senility has already started to set in… forgetting to take my camera on a trip to L’Enclume has got to be the start of a slippery slope.
What follows are pictures taken with my phone - normally I wouldn’t want to post photos that do not do the food justice but I like to record the progression in the food and the seasonal changes of the many visits I have made to L’Enclume over the years (for some stunning pictures of the menu, check out Stephen Perez’s flickr – here)
Of the snacks the standouts were the dim sum-like Game dumpling and the Crispy chicken, squid, redcurrant – a squid ink wafer and emulsion with crispy chicken skin, chicken liver parfait and, the star ingredient, a redcurrant gelée.
Once again, the Artichoke with goat’s cheese, tarragon, stout vinegar and malt was my favourite dish however the new Hake with crab and pine, leek, celeriac and sorrel was a close second – as you'd expect, the hake, enrobed in fat, was beautifully cooked but, for me, it was the ingenious injection of acidity from a tartly sweet reduction of Granny Smith apples, sorrel and wild ramson capers that made the dish sing.
Crispy chicken, squid, redcurrant
Smoked eel with ham fat
Raw scallop and caviar
Creamed turnip, Tunworth, lamb’s tongue
Baked squash, Maran egg, nasturtium, chestnut, goose leg
Valley venison, charcoal oil, mustard and fennel
Butter poached lobster, parsnip, scurvy grass and black radish
Artichokes with goat’s cheese, tarragon, stout vinegar and malt
Hake with crab and pine, leek, celeriac and sorrel
Penny Bridge Dexter, creamed kales, carrot and mead
Apple and rosehip tart (scoffed without a pic, get me!)
Almond, pear, anise hyssop
Beetroot slate, apple marigold and cobnut
Caramel, poached quince, walnut and perilla