Looking
through the Telegraph’s list of ‘The
World’s Most Romantic Places’, one of them is the Sirocco Sky Bar in Bangkok, I’ve been… it was shit!
My
favourite restaurant for a romantic meal is Marc Wilkinson’s Michelin starred Fraiche in the village of Oxton where my
wife and I have been lucky enough to dine on the last four Valentine’s days.
We
used to be regular diners at Fraiche but it has become increasingly difficult
to secure a table (unless you are more organised than me and remember to log on
at 10am on the first of the month for availability 3 months from then). They
say absence makes the heart grow fonder – with Fraiche this is certainly true.
In
fact - forget that - it’s not ‘absence’ that has made Fraiche better; it's the
positive changes that Marc has made to the food, décor and overall experience… it’s
amazing how much progression there has been in just one year... even the name
has been revamped as Fraiche Nature.
Marc’s
skills in the kitchen and commitment to “keep pushing forward” that has resulted
in Fraiche retaining its Michelin star for seven years and being voted the “best
restaurant in the UK” on the Harden’s compiled Sunday
Times Food List.
Nyetimber / Spiced pecans / Rhubarb bitters
“Winter Tree” – presented on a tree that
looks like has been plucked fresh from Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Room, the
branches bestow a bounty of seasonal offerings… such wonderful ‘theatre’.
“Oyster Wafer” – the wafer part is made
from pure oyster that has been through a number of fancy pants modern processes
but still retains the clean sea fresh flavour of oyster.
“Shiitake Hit” – an intense hit of
shiitake dashi with a feta and beetroot.
“Scallop Tartare” – a delicate dish of
silky smooth textures comprised of compressed avocado, buttermilk and pink
grapefruit gelée with pumpkin seed and mustard leaf. My wife’s favourite of the
night.
Bread – the bread
‘courses’ at Fraiche have always been something special, this time the usual Multi-seed,
Cheese, Granary & Treacle rolls were accompanied with Sourdough and Tomato
crisp breads.
The
next course “Quail, parsley, red cabbage”
came in two parts; the first of which was my favourite. The
‘shattered red cabbage’, beetroot and parsley puree were great and, of course,
the quail was delightfully cooked and a dinky fried quail egg is always a joy but
it was the unique flavour of smoked Lapsang Souchong Crocodile Tea that really elevated the dish for me. Part
two featured confit quail topped with a light potato mousse and rocket.
In
the nest dish, “Smoked salmon”, each
element was spectacular; citrusy Buddha’s hand and bergamot cream were
enlivened by chive oil and fabulous squid ink crisps.
Another
bread course, a Rosemary brioche,
was served with an indulgent truffle butter.
As
the dishes continued, it was clear to me that two Michelin stars is a very
achievable goal for Fraiche. Each artfully presented, innovative dish
was meticulously crafted with prime ingredients, accomplished
techniques and a clever use of texture. Most importantly, the clarity and
balance of flavours was exemplary.
“Brill, celery, yuzu” – chervil root,
smoked almond, Périgord truffle
“Venison, celeriac, gem” – Venison loin,
celeriac puree, charred baby gem, cocoa nibs and trompettes. The wow factor on
this dish came from the ‘winter leaf’ tuiles and crisps made from spinach, potato,
& celeriac.
When
it comes to dessert at Fraiche, guests are asked “Salt or Sugar?”
I
chose “Salt” for the “Goats curd mousse, walnut, blood orange
& truffle” as well as the “Cheese
Chariot”
My
wife went for “Sugar” to have the “Lemongrass Panna Cotta with Sour Cherry”
and the “Chocolate”
Various
other sweet treats including a “Coconut
rice pudding & mango lassi” “Fizzy
Grapes” and clever nitro poached “Eccles
Cake” rounded off a perfect evening.
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