Aumbry, Manchester

Housed in a quaint converted cottage on the historic Church Lane in Manchester’s Prestwich, Aumbry Restaurant is one of the most talked about eateries in town and has been on my ‘to do’ list for quite some time. Some quick Googlage informs me that ‘aumbry’ refers to a cabinet or wall recess in medieval churches in which chalices and cruets of holy oils were stored. Apart from the street address, I’m not sure exactly what connection is – I didn’t see any chalices or evidence of holy oils (there may have been some truffle oil or a quality extra virgin olive oil). Perhaps, it’s because many tip Aumbry to be the restaurant that is most likely to win back a Michelin star for Manchester, the holy grail of restaurant accolades?

Prior to this visit, I had eaten Aumbry’s food on a couple of occasions: some small tasters at the Manchester picnic (see here) and then at the home of businessman Franco Sotgiu, where chefs Mary-Ellen and her husband Laurence and the team set up shop to feed Aiden Byrne, Gizzi Erskine and other assorted foodies at the Chroma Knives Charity Supper Club (see here). As a result, I was known to the kitchen and they did kindly provide a couple of extra courses on the house – but this, in no way, has influenced my integrity of posting a fair and genuine comment about my dining experience.

Having been so impressed by their food and the many high praising blog posts reviews and awards, I was keen to visit them on their own turf. By happy coincidence, I happened to be visiting during an exciting few days, not only was it the Manchester Food and Drink Festival but this week also saw Aumbry placed at number 67 in The Restaurant Magazine’s National Restaurant Awards for 2011 - this made Aumbry the highest entry for a Manchester restaurant (the only other being The Mark Addy at number 93.)

2 Church Lane, Prestwich, Manchester M25 1AJ

Upon arrival, my wife and I were directed upstairs into their lounge area. The uneven floors, mismatched and antique furniture made for a comfortable setting. A diverse selection of framed music posters, artwork and photography, featuring bands such as local legends New Order, added an edge to an otherwise traditional feel.

As we sat and listened to the jazzy sounds of Ray Charles some canapés featuring homemade crisps and stunning smoked cheddar gougères arrived. We had booked, taking advantage of the MFDF ‘Mini Taster - Festival 15 Menu’ but were given the opportunity to upgrade to larger sized portions or to supplement with dishes from the regular tasting menu. Noticing that the mackerel and plaice dishes that I had at the Chroma Knives ‘do’ were on the menu, I decided that we would go for the supplements, as I knew my wife would love them.

Chefs, husband & wife, Laurence Tottingham & Mary-Ellen McTague 

After the canapés we were led downstairs - the intimate dining room accommodates just over twenty covers with a clever use of space that manages to retain the cosiness expected of a small restaurant whilst also preserving a suitable degree of privacy. The far end of the restaurant features an open view into the kitchen – personally I love this feature; the passion from the kitchen permeates the room. The calm purposeful hum from the hardworking chefs (punctuated only occasionally by a call from Mary-Ellen or Laurence at the pass) adds a unique atmosphere and judging by the number of regulars that the staff seemed to be greeting, keeps people coming back time and time again.

The décor of the room has elements of shabby chic with a generous helping of ‘tea room’. Mainly achieved through the impressive antique sideboard that the excellent front of house team use as their main work station and the distressed wooden chairs and further enhanced by the individually quirky pieces of vintage crockery. The slick service, formal table settings and of course food help to elevate the somewhat ‘minimalist setting’ into refined ‘fine dining’. The modern edge comes in the form of the food – a prime example being the amuse bouche of Pork Pâté which is topped with pickled cucumber and paired with a modish spherification of jasmine & honey. Sublime!

Having loved the Home Smoked Mackerel with Poached rhubarb, mustard cream & toasted rye bread when I had it previously, I was keen to see if it was as good as I remember. It was. My wife loved it too… a wonderful balance of flavours and textures.

Next up was one of Aumbry’s signature dishes, the Bury Black Pudding Scotch Egg with homemade tomato ketchup & mushroom relish. This dish is a prime example of their commitment to local produce, beautifully showcasing the excellent blood sausage from just five miles away.

The next course was one that I was particularly looking forward to, a Celeriac Soup with Toasted Hazelnuts & Truffle Oil. Since I helped to create the Celeriac Espuma at the Michelin starred The Box Tree (see here) I have been a big fan of this root vegetable. The soup was delightful, served piping hot with a lovely smooth finish. The toasted hazelnuts were a real revelation with a texture akin to roasted chestnuts - an amazing autumnal dish.

My wife and I both enjoy oysters and since I had sung its praises, she had been keen to try the oyster suet pudding – part of the dish, Poached Plaice, Oyster pudding, parsley root, verjuice & nasturtium buds. As expected, she was blown away. Fortunately, this recipe is one of Aumbry’s featured recipes in the Relish Greater Manchester & Cheshire book, so I’ll be able to attempt to create it at home.

The next dish was, Wild Cumbrian Wood Pigeon with Buttered cabbage, parcel of confit leg and barberries. The pigeon was perfectly cooked; full or gamey flavour with wonderful texture – an underrated meat. My wife loves cabbage; now when I cook it at home I’ll have to step up my game as she’ll be expecting it cooked and prepared like this in the future.

Sorry about the chutney smudge - I almost forgot to take a pic! 

Next came a selection of British & Irish Cheeses paired with a 1978 Wiese & Krohn Colheita (kindly sent with complements of Mary-Ellen and Laurence.) I eat a lot of cheese and this selection included a few favourites (including the excellent Mrs Bells Blue) and a new one for me, called Old Winchester - a dry, nutty cheese similar to an aged Gouda… a British alternative to the popular Old Amsterdam?

Our pre-dessert was the Grapefruit Posset with Celery granita & grapefruit sherbet. I am aware that the chefs are keen food historians and often experiment with ‘forgotten’ flavour combinations, ingredients and techniques. There are some delightful old recipes for possets knocking about. Check them out on sites such as www.historicfood.com - The fun factor in this dish is added with the dainty teaspoon of grapefruit sherbet; reminiscent of Dib Dabs, Flying Saucers and Sherbet Lemons ‘off of’ my childhood.

At the start of the evening we had informed our waiter that, being greedy folk, we would probably supplement our meal with the additional dessert, Almond Crisp with Chocolate mousse, Griottine cherries & cocoa sorbet. So when one arrived for my wife but not me, I was a little concerned (for a moment). My wife loved this dish, the mousse maintaining an intense chocolaty flavour, despite its creamy texture.

The reason that two Almond Crisps didn’t arrive is because, knowing that I have had that dish before, the Aumbry team wanted me to try another of their dishes, the Treacle Tart with Lemon jelly & Earl Grey cream tea & Earl Grey ice. This is not something I would have selected from the menu as I am not a lover of Earl Grey tea and the treacle tarts that I have had in the past have been far too sickly sweet. Although, the tart lemon jelly and hot cream tea were actually phenomenally good accompaniments, whilst the ice offered an interesting texture and temperature variance. All I can add is that, I remember Mary-Ellen and Laurence’s former boss, Heston Blumenthal, making a Treacle Tart on his BBC series ‘In Search of Perfection’ – I don’t know if he ever found the prefect treacle tart that he was looking for but I suggest he resumes looking in a certain little restaurant about ten minutes from Manchester city centre.

Petit fours: Homemade pastilles & chocolates

My green tea with delightful vintage teaware

This is not as daft as it sounds, for tonight as part of the MFDF 2011, Aumbry Restaurant will be hosting a very special charity event in aid of Hospitality Action & the Royal Manchester Children's Hospital. A reunion with their former Fat Duck colleagues will see them present a ten course tasting menu with matching wines. Jonny Lake, head chef at the 3* Michelin Fat Duck, James Lowe of the Young Turks and Emily Watkins of the ‘Bib Gourmanded’ Kingham Plough are among those who will be cooking a course each – and I am among those who will be eating them! Watch this space! 

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The Spice Club, Manchester

You’ve heard of Victoria, Geri, Emma, Mel B and Mel C… but let me introduce you to the spiciest Spice Girl – Monica.

Image courtesy of: http://spiceclubmanchester.com

Monica (and family) run ‘The Spice Club’, heralded Manchester’s first supper club. Supper clubs or ‘secret supper clubs’ have been all the rage ‘down south’ and in the US for quite some time. If you haven’t heard of the concept… (What planet have you been on? - just kidding!) they work something like this: keen amateurs transform their homes into restaurants for the evening; advertise through social networks, blogs, tweets and by word of mouth; guests register their interest and book; the location is revealed; they arrive; eat; drink; be merry; pay a suggested donation and then boast to all their friends and colleagues about how trendy they have been!

Manchester was late to the party, but since The Spice Club’s launch, just over a year ago, they have rapidly grown in popularity. One reason cited for their success is that people are looking for a cheaper alternative to dining at a restaurant; for me it’s about seeking out food cooked with passion and sharing the experience with likeminded foodies.

Spice Club founder Monica (left) and her mother  Anita 

I first met Monica and her brother Aj when they were invited, along with myself and other ‘key food people from Manchester and London’ to the Chroma Knives charity evening with Aumbry Restaurant, Aiden Byrne and Gizzi Erskine. Their friendly natures and love for authentic, quality home cooked Indian cuisine was enough to convince me to attend one of their events.

When, via Twitter (@TheSpiceClub) I saw that two places were still available for their upcoming ‘Indian Vegetarian Feast’, I booked our places and waited eagerly for details of the secret location to be revealed.

Arriving unfashionably early, my wife and I were greeted wonderfully warmly by Monica, her proud mother Anita and the most amazing smells coming from the kitchen, that the two of them had been working so hard in throughout the day. With the aid of three large dining tables, lavishly dressed in maroons, reds and gold, the family’s lounge had been transformed into a sumptuous dining room. Soft lighting, fresh flowers and candles enhanced the welcoming ambiance. A parade of papier-mâché animals held the name place cards of the twenty-four hungry curry fans who would be sharing the evening and unique dining experience.

As people started to arrive, conversation started to flow as people got acquainted. Questions such as, ‘Is this your first supper club?’ ‘How did you hear about it?’ ‘Are you vegetarian?’ and ‘What do you do?’ helped to break the ice. Apart from a love of food, we soon found things in common. Of the eight people sharing our table, four were teachers; one was thinking of getting into teaching; one was a chef and another a mental health unit manager.

Despite just three of our number being ‘full time’ vegetarians we were all looking forward to the vegetarian delights as we perused the beautifully presented menus. Another thing that we had in common… we were all supper club virgins. I’m what I call a ‘part time’ vegetarian; I rarely eat meat at home or for lunches at work. When out, and eating à la carte, I tend to choose the meat free options or fish/seafood dishes. I will only have the meat if we are having a tasting menu.

Fellow guest Tom, about to brave a fresh green chilli

Having just read about the two people who ended up in A & E in Edinburgh after participating in a 'world's hottest chilli' charity competition eating the ‘Kismot Killer’ and witnessing the Manchester Food & Drink Festival Chilli Eating Contest, my wife was a little concerned about eating at a place called ‘The Spice Club’. Her fears were soon allayed however when the food turned out to be delicately spiced and flavoursome, as opposed to fiery.

Our meal started with some mini poppadom bites and a Welcome Drink of Refreshing homemade lemon crush. Guests were also invited to ‘bring their own’ and the tables were laid with wine glasses. Aj acted as maître d' and, as well as being on hand to ensure the guests were being well looked after and the evening was running smoothly, kept peoples glasses topped up, including jugs of ice cold water.

The meal started with a Bread Pakora appetiser. The fresh pakora was made from bread, coated with mint and coriander chutney, served with sweet tamarind and jaggery sauce. I have never heard of bread being used as a filling for a pakora before but for me and the rest of the table, it worked really well. Jaggery is a type of palm sugar that some Indians believe brings good luck and is often eaten at the beginning of new ventures or enterprises – a fitting way to start the meal.

Following the starter, the flowers and table decorations were cleared for the entrées, which were served ‘family style’ down the centre for sharing. The dishes were:

Paneer Mattar - Traditional Indian cheese cooked in an onion, garlic & ginger masala with peas. This dish was my wife’s particular favourite. I have since made a version at home using Monica’s recipe that is available on her Spice Diary – Indian Food Blog. It’s sure to become a Hoss family favourite!

Another popular dish amongst the guests on my table was the Shahi Kofta – Spicy balls made from channa dal, cabbage & yam, cooked in a delicious creamy sauce. The texture of these balls was particularly pleasing, the pieces of channa dal (split chickpeas) within adding a delightful nuttiness.

My personal favourite dish was the Sukha Aloo – Potatoes tempered in red onions, mustard seeds, fresh ginger, mango powder & fresh coriander. I’m not generally a huge eater of potatoes but this dish was wonderful. I have been cooking a lot with mustard seeds recently and enjoy their texture as much as mild spiciness. Mango powder is something I have not cooked with before but will definitely be experimenting with as an acidulant in the future.

Ma Cholo Ki Dal – Urad and channa dal lentils blended together and cooked in a delicious fresh Punjabi tarka. Tarka is the method of flash frying whole spices in oil or ghee (all The Spice Club’s dishes are cooked in olive oil) to free the oils and enhance their flavours.

The entrées were accompanied by Basmati Rice, Fresh Hot Chapatis and the traditional North Indian Boondi Raita. The Boondi is made from fried droplets of gram (chickpea) flour batter, which is then blended with yoghurt and mixed with roasted ground cumin and fresh mint.

For dessert we were treated to a refreshing, homemade Mango Sorbet topped with mint sugar and fresh pomegranate. The Spice Club’s trademark subtle and flavoursome use of spices were added to the artistically arranged coulis, pleasingly spiced with cumin and a hint of cardamom.

Of all the dishes on the menu, the only one that I was a little apprehensive about was the Cardamom Chai Tea – served with traditional Indian biscuits. I drink a lot of green, white and yellow teas, but generally avoid blue (oolong) and black teas. The thought therefore of a black tea, laced with spices and milk was not appealing to me in the slightest. However, the tea had not been over steeped and the spices were delicate. In fact, I enjoyed it so much, I even drank my wife’s - a fitting end to the meal.

The guest book.

I may have been late but now that I have officially climbed aboard the bandwagon and am no longer a supper club virgin, I’ll definitely be seeking other secret suppers and will be looking for permanent membership to The Spice Club. 

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Tai Pan, Manchester

Due to the fact that we eat out at least three or four times a week, I generally do not blog about every meal. Preferring instead to write about ‘fine dining’ or places that are in someway special or unique. I wouldn’t consider Tai Pan to fall into either of those categories, but we have just enjoyed a memorable meal there. (Firstly, let me apologise for the quality of the pictures; as an unplanned post, I did not have my camera with me and had to use my iPhone.)

Having hardly eaten anything all day, we were on our way back from visiting family on the other side of Manchester when we decided that we would visit Rusholme’s Curry Mile ‘thought, (according to Wikipedia) to be the largest concentration of South Asian restaurants outside the Indian subcontinent’. Having been disappointed on our last visit to our regular ‘Punjab’ (famed locally for its Dosas) I got on to twitter to seek recommendations from my foodie friends and followers.

The overall consensus seemed to be that the quality of food available in Rusholme has been in steady decline over the last few years and that the cafes around Cheetham Hill are among the better places to get authentic, quality curries. As a result, we double backed and decided instead to go for a ‘Chinese’ having just passed Tai Pan on Upper Brook Street.

Tai Pan (translating as ‘Supreme Leader’) is a delightfully dated stereotypical kitsch Chinese restaurant in the finest 1970s style. I half expected Jim 'The Dragon' Kelly to come swaggering in to the sound of Isaac Hayes. The cavernous space has the characteristic office style suspended ceiling and large round tables surrounded by gloriously gaudy lacquered chairs. The tables are dressed with pink damask tablecloths, set with paper napkins and plastic chopsticks. Golden dragons, red lanterns and pictures of pagodas, storks and lilies complete the décor.

Despite having been recommended on a number of occasions by a Vietnamese friend of ours, this was our first visit to Tai Pan - even though we have often visited the W H Lung Cash and Carry that the restaurant sits over. One of the reasons for not having been before is that over the past few years I have generally fallen out of love with Chinese food… at least, most of the Chinese food that is abundant in the typical takeaway or restaurant.

Another reason is that, in 2009 Tai Pan were fined a record £70,000 for 'absolutely outrageous' food hygiene standards. Of course, they sorted those problems and the Food Standards Agency ratings website now rates them as ‘generally satisfactory’ – which translates as roach free – always a bonus!

There was a time when I would have eaten Chinese takeaway or restaurant food at least once or twice a week. Nowadays, if I want Chinese food I am more likely to cook it fresh at home or opt for another Asian cuisine, preferably Japanese, Thai, Malaysian or Indonesian.  We arrived to find that a good 80% of the diners were of an East Asian persuasion, which we took as a positive sign that good quality authentic food was available.

We began to peruse the huge menu, which features an impressive selection of Dim Sum. My wife selected Gern Chun Ow Yuk, which are Beef Dumplings with Ginger and Spring Onions. A tasty dish served in a steamer with an unctuous sticky sauce.

I chose the cold starter, that I have been wanting to try for a while, Preserved eggs with grilled chilli – also known as century eggs, hundred year eggs, thousand year eggs, and millennium eggs. They are made by preserving for around one hundred days using a mixture that includes charcoal and lime. As a result, the albumen (white) turns into a translucent brown jelly and the yolks develop a green hue and creamy texture. The preservation technique raises the alkalinity of the eggs, which gives them a strong flavour and ammonia like aroma. Now that I’ve had them, I’d definitely choose them again. They had a cheese like flavour and were delicious with the fiery chilli oil.

To soak up the chilli sauce, I also ordered my favourite steamed buns, which came with condensed milk. It’s easy to make these buns at home and they freeze so well and go with so much.

Noticing a group in the corner with a large steel pot on their table, I went over to their table to have a nosey and discovered that they were sharing a ‘Huo-guo’ or ‘hot pot’ (Not to be confused with Betty’s hotpot as served up just two miles down the road in the Rovers Return) Asking our waitress, I was informed that this dish was not featured on the ‘English’ version of the menu but we could have one if we so desired.

Our waitress advised us that the portions were large and that we’d manage with a ‘two person portion’ – I have a huge appetite, so we also ordered a boiled rice and a fried rice, just in case. The ‘steamboat’ urn had two sections so we chose to have a spicy ‘Tom Yam’ style broth in one side and a plain/vegetable in the other – a sour taste was also an option.

When the food arrived, the ‘large portions’ turned out to be nothing less than gargantuan – I would happily have served this to six hungry adults. The twenty-inch plate was piled high with a mountain of fresh Chicken, Beef, Lamb, Tofu Parcels, Silken Tofu, Sea Bass Balls, Cuttlefish Balls, Monkfish, Squid, Mussels, Chinese Fishcakes, Yam Noodles, Bean Curd Paper, Pak Choy, Choy Sum, Lettuce and Herbs.

Then a side trolley arrived which had on board another plate featuring several fresh Scallops, six Large Prawns on Skewers and two raw Eggs. Our waitress placed a selection of the ingredients in the broths and cranked up the heat – minutes later we were feasting on some of the most flavoursome and fresh food I have ever eaten in a Chinese restaurant. Not a grain of MSG in sight.

Once the waitress had demonstrated how to cook ingredients such as the beef for just a few seconds by dipping it in and out with the chopsticks she left us to cook at our own pace and to our liking. We’d boil up a batch; turn the pot to a simmer while we ate and then go again for more. After a good few bowls and having removed the peak from the mountain of food, my wife and step-daughter were becoming a little over faced… but I bravely soldiered on.

It was wonderful to have the contrasting broths - enjoying the balance from having some of the food cooked in the plain broth with its clean fresh flavour with some in the spicier Tom Yam, which was heavily flavoured with lemongrass and had a real chilli kick.

The fish and vegetables cooked this way were particularly enjoyable and were enhanced by the broths, the ‘boiled’ meat less so. I love Tofu and most Soya derivatives – but this was the first time that I have had the bean curd paper in this form. I expected it to have the soft texture of the Japanese fried tofu pouches ‘Aburaage’, used in Inarizushi but this dried form has a much firmer texture and is very nice. I’ll definitely be buying some to cook and experiment with.

My hollow legs were slowly becoming full and despite the fact that the rice remained practically untouched, the mountain of food had been reduced to a mere molehill. Certainly not the most refined meal that I’ve eaten, but a filling flavoursome and fun food experience. I’d love to return with a larger group of friends and enjoy the exquisite preserved eggs and social ‘steamboat’ again. 

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The Gallery Café at the Whitworth Art Gallery, Manchester

Noting on the school diary that I had been enrolled onto a course I had the usual mixed feelings. On the plus side, it’s always good to develop professionally and hopefully learn something new that will revolutionise my good teaching practice (and, more importantly, a day out of the classroom means an evening free from marking books!) On the down side, I have to leave additional planning and detailed instructions for whomever will be taking the class (and, more concerningly, face the prospect of sharing a dull sandwich buffet with a room full of strangers fellow professionals.)

When I discovered that the course would be held at one of the University of Manchester buildings on Oxford Road, I had the bright idea of forgoing the ‘provided’ lunch and whizzing along to the Gallery Café at the neighbouring Whitworth Art Gallery. What I didn’t realise is that the group would vote to take a shorter lunch in order to leave slightly earlier – a great idea, but it meant that in order to get to the café and back in time, I’d need to get a wriggle on.

I grabbed my bag and started to walk double time past the Freshers and the overly keen flyer giver-outers, inviting me to spend my student loan at the student union bar. I managed to avoid signing up to a march against the Tories and dodge being flirty fished for some church or another and swerved the individuals inviting me to a big poster sale! I’m 36 … do I really look like the kind of person that would want a poster of Che Guevara or a spliff toting little grey alien saying ‘Take me to your dealer’?

No, what I want is Fairtrade coffees and teas, organic fruit juices and homemade cakes. I want locally sourced produce and a menu of freshly made food that changes seasonally. I want muesli, humous, bruschetta, salads, olives and wraps. Fortunately the Gallery Café serves just such fayre. They also cater for vegetarians, vegans (and meat eaters) and those with food allergies or who need gluten free products.

Opened in 2005, the café, the company ‘The Modern Caterer’ (who also run Gabriel’s Kitchen and the Discovery Centre Café at Jodrell Bank) and its proprietor chef Peter Booth have won numerous awards. Including, in 2009, The Good Food Guide’s Best Family Restaurant and the Manchester Food and Drink Festival (MFDF) Award for Healthy and Sustainable Eating. Peter Booth is also a winner of the MFDF ‘Food Hero of the Year.’

An unseasonably hot day for the end of September, I arrived to find an eclectic mix featuring students, art lovers and nurses from the nearby Manchester Royal Infirmary enjoying the sunshine and making full use of the café’s al fresco dining facilities. Inside, the glass domed and marble pillared gallery foyer doubles as a reception and additional seating area. To the left, the gallery shop, selling the usual postcards, books and souvenirs. To the right, the café, selling the unusually high quality fresh food – not a pre-packaged sandwich in sight.

The café itself is clean and functional, no frills here; it’s all about the food. Chalkboards over the open kitchen and counter, proudly display what is on offer, including the soup of the day, children’s options, homemade cakes and specials.

The menu was varied and there was lots that I fancied; I opted for the ‘Orrechiette Pasta, Sweet Peas, Garlic, Parsley & Pecorino’ - only to discover that they were out. Instead I went for the Wrap of Smoked Salmon, Herb Cream Cheese & Rocket. A tasty mix of crushed herby potatoes with olives, cumin seeds, pasta and vegetables accompanied the wrap, which contained a generous serving of hot smoked salmon. Certainly the best smoked salmon wrap I’ve ever had.

I also opted for the Mezze – served with Tzatziki, Moroccan Carrot Salad and House Marinated Olives & Flat Bread. I felt that the Tzatzkiki could’ve done with a bit more flavour from more herbs, lemon juice or pepper but the crunchy blanched carrot salad was perfect with punchy Moroccan flavour from more cumin seeds. The bread tasted fresh and the home marinated olives were good quality and tasty.

To soak up the herby marinade on the olives I also ordered the Barbakan Bread & Butter - provided by the nearby Barbakan Delicatessen nominated in this years MFDF Awards as the ‘Best Food & Drink Retail Outfit’.

Making the most of the seasons best, I ended my lunch with a deliciously moist homemade Plum slice.

Sadly, on this occasion, I needed to hurry back for the afternoon part of my course and did not have time to view any of the gallery’s fine collections. Including works by Henry Moore, Lucian Freud, L.S. Lowry, David Hockney, Blake, Bacon, Klee, Turner, Gaugain, Cézanne, Degas, Matisse, Picasso and van Gogh (among others)… but those along with the Orrechiette Pasta are reasons to go back, sooner rather than later. 

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