This year, my wife and I will be celebrating 14 years
of happy marriage… sometimes I wonder what she sees in me, then I remember I
take her to Fraiche each year on Valentine’s Night. That’s gotta be what keeps her
interested, right?
Of course, every night at Fraiche is special but on
the 14th Feb, Marc and the team always plan a few extra surprises –
little gifts, a quiz, rose petals strewn on the tables and alike. Proper lovey
dovey stuff.
Enough waffle, now to the real lovely stuff… the food!
After the obligatory Spiced Pecans (a Fraiche favourite), what followed were a couple of
fun, zingy appetisers which showed off Marc’s inventive, skilled and playful
cooking – his take on the classic Cheese
& Pineapple and an Apple Cloud,
served with an apple gel and oyster leaves.
Next came an elegant Scallop Tartare – with a disc of yuzu jelly, popcorn, grape and a
hint of Périgord truffle.
In purée form, the next dish featured Butternut Squash – this was topped with
a light, airy goat’s cheese mousse, pumpkin seeds & grated chestnut. A deftly
balanced dish with clever use of textures.
Breads – with tomato butter & a beurre demi-sel
With it’s freshness and vibrancy, the Artichoke dish was the best of the evening
for me – crowned with shaved foie gras, it consisted of pickled and puréed artichoke
with a slow cooked yolk. Flavour accents came from verjus and slithers of
smoked duck.
Bread: Mushroom
Brioche with toasted goat’s butter.
Allowing its natural
flavours to shine, the Skrei Cod was absolutely divine – celery, wild sea kale, Périgord truffle & parsley oil completed the dish.
Before the main, another example of Marc’s creative,
skilled and playful edge came in the form of a perfectly formed Wagyu
Beef Slider – this was a
joy to eat!
With its rich and intense flavours, the Wagyu Beef main was one of those dishes
that managed to be both hearteningly rustic and yet still refined. The Cevenne onion braised in wagyu dripping, madeira braised salsify and indulgent cep
sauce being three elements that I found particularly pleasing.
As is the norm at Fraiche, we then got to choose “Salt” or “Sweet” for dessert. We opted for one of each to share. We both
received the same palate cleanser – a Lemon,
Basil & Tonka Bean granita.
The “Salt” option
commenced with a Lychee, Mint &
Black Sesame espuma and tuile, whilst the “Sweet” offering was the Fraiche favourite, Lemongrass
Panna Cotta with Sour Cherry.
A major plus of the “Salt” is getting to choose 5 cheeses from the ever impressive cheese
chariot – my wife chose Reblochon
and a particular fine, ripe Eve (a soft bloomy rinded cheese, washed lightly with cider brandy
and wrapped in a vine leaf); my choices were the fabulous Morn
Dew, a favourite in Beauvale (a
continental style blue from the makers of Cropwell Bishop) and the herb & bird’s
eye chilli encrusted Brin d'Amour,
which seemed fitting as it translates as “strand of love”.
The main “Sweet”
dessert was a crowd pleasing plate of all things Chocolate & Apricot.
When you think it’s all over, during Tea (Malawi Antlers) & Coffee, a succession
of sweet treats arrived, Peanut Butter “Cornettos”, Fizzy Grapes, Raspberry Lips,
Chocolates and the most delightful Compressed Rhubarb.
As the designated driver, I opted for the rather
delicious and inventive Juice Flight
Virgin Mojito / Dandelion & Burdock / Apple, Kiwi & Wheatgrass
Fennel Tea / Lemon Barley / Blueberry & Blackcurrant
As usual, our evening and Fraiche was truly magical and
my wife is guaranteed to love me for another year.
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