Like any restaurant with 2 Michelin stars and a
ranking in The
World’s 50 Best
(No.6), Mugaritz was always “on my
radar”. Then I met and shared a meal with Per-Anders and Lotta Jorgensen. Together they founded FOOL “the best food magazine in the world” (my
quote).
As well as editing FOOL, Per-Anders is probably “the best (food)
photographer in the world” (his quote), and it’s his photography in Chef
Andoni Luis Aduriz’s cookbook that helped Mugaritz move to the top of my list.
Many times I’ve said how
‘expectation’ can play a role in my enjoyment of a restaurant – too
high may result in a let down; conversely, low expectation can lead to being
pleasantly surprised. I’ve read many mixed reports of Mugaritz but somehow I
just knew I’d “get it”.
Mugaritz seems to have
a reputation as a love it or hate it kind of place. When
eating a tasting menu with an excess of twenty dishes, it's reasonable to assume that there may be one of two that will not "hit the spot" but I loved every mouthful.
Lacquered duck neck with herbs from
the garden (Cuello de pato
locado con su jugo, hierbas de la huerta) – I loved this one, for something so
light it had deeply rich and sticky umami flavours which were contrasted by the
freshness of sprout, nasturtium and radish leaves from the Mugaritz garden.
Blue bread and anchovy (Pan azul y anchoa) – made to resemble a blue
cheese, this dish was essentially a mouldy anchovy sandwich. As delicious as it
was, I wouldn’t recommend trying to recreate this dish at home with a tin of anchovies
and some rotten Warburton’s.
Walnut omelette (Tortilla de nueces) – more intense, woody
flavours came on the form of a light walnut omelette with indulgent oozing centre.
Caesar’s Mushroom with sesame (Amanita Caesarea) – Amanita mushrooms are the
kind that the Smurfs live in; this one came halved with a crust of pine nuts
and red pepper powder. A citrusy cream added an acidity which balanced the earthiness.
Tiger nuts with caviar (Chufa con caviar) – I’ve not come across tiger
nuts before, however a little research tells me that they are in fact not a nut
at all but a tuber. They are most commonly used to make Horchata. In this
instance they had been used to make a wafer like tile, topped with caviar.
Stewed and aromatic lamb’s tongue (Lengua de cordero guisada y perfumada) –
another corker of a dish for me (I got to eat my wife’s too as she’s squeamish
about tongues, from animals). More rich, umami flavours comong from another
glossy glaze; this time lifted with a little mint.
Vegetal bestary (Bestiario vegetal) – served alongside a garlic
and almond crumb, this dish consisted of shrivelled aubergine skin with smoky
and peppery flavours.
Vegetable tiles: A handful of
Highland grass (Teselas
vegetales: Un manojo de semillas y brotes de teff) – resembling a Furby, this
was one of the most delightful things I’ve ever been served. A creamy hazelnut centre
lay within the tufty outer, made from a species of African ‘lovegrass’ called teff.
At this point in the meal, I accepted the invitation
into the kitchen but only because one of the dishes was to be served there. My
wife declined the offer so they served her portion of fermented rice at the table.
…decadentia… another extraordinary dish. A smoked eel mousse
came festooned with petals from hibiscus, mallow, dahlia and basil flowers – the brilliance being you
could actually eat the fork! It’s certainly one way of cutting down on the
washing up.
Chestnut, truffle and garlic (Castañas, trufas y ajos) – after the previous
dishes, the next dish disappointed in its creativity, fortunately what it
lacked in this area, it more than made up for in flavour! Along with the crispy
garlic and and ultra thing shavings of truffle, the appearance of fermented
acacia leaves particularly pleased.
A thousand leaves… (Mil hojas) – served with a cube of the region’s
famous Idiazábal cheese, the “thousand leaves’ referred to the
layers and layers of chard leaves cooked in a beef stock and glazed in a lustrous
beef reduction.
Oily fish, beetroot and
horseradish (Pescado azul,
remolacha y rábano) – a truly vibrant dish in terms of both colour and
flavours, a tranche of oily fish came blanketed buy a shocking pink fermented
beetroot emulsion, pepped p by a shaving of fresh horseradish.
Pigs tails and squid (Rabitos y chipirón) – pork and squid are
always happy bedfellows. Whilst we’ve all heard of nose to tail eating,
tentacle to tail is probably a new concept to most. Here generous portions of
tender squid meat came enrobed in a sweet, salty porcine sauce with bitter
notes from the accompanying herbs. Crispy Iberian tail scratchings added more salty
goodness and crunch.
Garlic glazed in lamb juices (Ali
glacé) – served with slice of toast and some fresh chickweed leaves, roasted
garlic bulb steeped in a sticky lamb jus reduction was a true delight! Umami
flavours, toast and garlic… an absolute stunner!
Grilled fish and beef essence (Prescado a la parrilla y esencia de chuleta) –
a beautiful piece of grilled fish with a sauce made with beef fats. It worked
for me.
Sea anemones and vegetable touch (Ortiguillas y acentos vegetales) – a
speciality of Cádiz, I’ve had breaded sea anemones before but this one had been
elevated to another level.
Veal, radishes and vine shoot (Ternera, rabanitos y sarmientos) – a Mugaritz
classic, I’m so glad the milk fed veal was served as part of this menu. The
meat was so juicy and sweetly flavoured, which contrasted perfectly with the
bitterness from the charred vine shoots and sharpness of radish.
The cheese (El queso) – served in a folded piece of
muslin, I loved the simplicity of the cheese course. A sheep’s cheese similar
to an Idiazábal, the pieces came
from cheeses matured for 3
months, 6 months and 12 months respectively. This allowed for their individual
nuances to be appreciated; such a simple, yet great idea.
Whiskey pie (Tarta al “güisqui”) – texturally light with
subtle caramel and malty flavours.
Grape & brioche (Uva y brioche) – another light desert with simple
harmonious flavours.
Peanut shortbread (Polvorón de cacahuete)
Jasmine & hay (Ovillo de jazmín y heno) – I love Japanese mochi
sweets so this was a pleasant surprise. The jasmine flavour was distinct with a
considered use of hay.
The seven deadly sins of Mugaritz (Los siete pecados capitales de Mugaritz)
– having to guess which of the petits fours represented each of the seven
deadly sins was a fun (and tasty) end to a faultless meal.
We’ve booked to return to San Sebastián / Donostia in May and Mugaritz will be on the itinerary
again!
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