For many, hearing the phrase “The Prince of Wales”
will conjure up images of big ears, talking to trees and conspiracy theories involving
motorcycle riding hitmen in Parisienne underpasses.
These days, the title is traditionally granted to the
first in line to the throne but it has held a long and complex history. The last ‘prince’ to use the title as de facto
ruler of an independent Wales was a boyo called Dafydd ap Gruffudd (David,
son of Gruffydd). In 1282, Dafydd made the mistake of attacking Hawarden Castle.
This riled the Norman king of England, Edward
I, whom he had hanged, drawn and quartered.
Some years later (17th century), Cromwell
ordered the castle to be slighted. Sir John Glynne subsequently built the ‘New Hawarden
Castle’ nearby. Through marriage, the estate
passed into the family of PM William E Gladstone. The family still owns the
castle; Gladstone’s library; the Hawarden Estate Farm Shop and the Michelin
rated Glynne Arms.
What Michelin say: ‘200 year old coaching inn opposite
Hawarden Castle; owned by the descendants of PM William Gladstone. Choose from
'Family Classics', steaks from the estate or more modern dishes with ambitious
flavour combinations. Desserts are a highlight.’
Although still retaining character, the modern décor
is lighter and airier than you’d expect from a 200 year old inn. In places, random
arrangements of objects made it feel a little like a still life art class was
about to commence. Complementing the design scheme, the menu too presented a
considered blend of tradition with contemporary touches.
To start: as opposed to ordering separate starters, my
wife and I decided to share three of the ‘Bar
Snacks’ and a small portion of mussels.
From the selection on offer, we went with: Farm shop pork pie, pickles / Whitebait, citrus mayonnaise and Farm shop scotch egg, brown sauce. All
were done well but I particularly enjoyed the quality pork pie with the splendidly
sharp and aromatic pickled vegetables.
The locals, seasonal Menai Strait Mussels with marinere sauce were good. The one
disappointment was the “crusty bread” which, although fresh, was not crusty.
My wife’s Pork
belly, garlic potato, savoy &
scratchings was a lovely dish. The pork and crackling were spot on and the dauphinoise-like
potato was delightful – good hit of garlic without being too creamy.
Roasts in pubs can never beat a home cooked jobby but
this was pretty good – Roast beef,
Yorkshire pudding, roast potatoes, vegetables & jus. Fab beef, a proper Yorkie, decent roasties and the horseradish
was a beaut! Eye-wateringly strong!
I had eyed up the ‘Treacle Tart with gingerbread ice
cream’ but sadly they had sold out of this popular dessert. There was another
in the oven but rather than wait I sent for the Chocolate stout pudding with single
cream (I asked for ice cream too). Deliciously rich and moist, this proved
to be a good choice.
My wife’s Honey
& lemon pannacotta was a little firm to be called perfection but the
flavours were very good.
We will definitely be visiting The Glynne Arms and the
estate’s nearby Farm Shop again. It’s less than 1 hour’s drive from the centre
of Manchester.
The Glynne Arms are rated at No.44 in the #top50gastropubs
The Glynne Arms are rated at No.44 in the #top50gastropubs
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