After only my third visit (including
the launch party), Simon Rogan’s Mr
Cooper’s House & Garden is already becoming one of my favourite places
to eat and drink in Manchester.
I have now tasted all the starters on
the current menu and am working my way through the mains and desserts. Everything I have tried so far has been not
only cooked to a high standard but inventive also – for someone who eats out
regularly, it’s so refreshing to be presented with a choice that is a little
break from the norm.
Any dishes that I have questioned on
paper have delivered on the plate and palate. On out last visit, we sat in Mr
Cooper’s study… (here),
on this occasion we took at seat in the (indoor) “garden” before retreating to
the library for drinks. On both visits, the service has been exceptional - it’s
early days, so of course the staff are all freshly trained and are keen to
impress; and so they have.
Parmesan patties, mushroom ketchup & baby leaves – these little fellas may look like
a bit of a gimmick but they certainly pack a flavourful punch, mainly thanks to
the rich mushroom ketchup.
Deep fried prawns, mango & chorizo marmalade – another dish that delivers big
bold flavours with the joyous chorizo marmalade and the perfect amount of
tropical mango coulis; wonderful textures too.
Grilled figs, ham, rocket & spicy popcorn – a quality dish with beautiful
figs and excellent ham and gentle spicing from the popcorn, peppery rocket and
balsamic dressing,
Chipotle polenta, hot smoked salmon, leeks & parsley coulis – at the risk of becoming
repetitive, this was another bold flavoured dish: the salmon was heavily
smoked, which complemented the smoky chipotles in the polenta. The surprise
element was the roasted slice of ‘tamarillo’ (a slightly bitter plum / tomato
cross) – a fab ingredient that I’ve
only had twice before (in a sorbet at Pierre Gagnaire & in a
drink at HKK).
Cumbrian rib steak, truffle pudding & purple potato latkes – quite simply one of the best mains
being served anywhere in Manchester at the moment; as I said in the previous
post… ‘stunning’.
Sides: fab Chips (bordering on ‘shoestring’ style) and a top notch Cauliflower cheese.
Cheese terrine, golden raisins, nut & fruit bread – served with delectable, plump aquavit
soaked golden raisins, this was a deceptively simple cheese course made from a,
no doubt, fancy technique that I will simplify as making a cheese fondue,
dropping cubes of cheeses into it and allowing it to cool and set.
Turkish delight syllabub & honey flapjacks – my wife hates Turkish Delight so
I ordered this so that I didn't have to share; unfortunately, the dish was that
good she is now a convert and polished most of it off… typical!
I’ll be back soon to try the rest of
the mains and desserts… see you there!
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